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Thread: 2a axles

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    .........
    There are 2 different scenarios (assuming open diffs front and rear).

    (a) You lift 1 wheel in 4x4, but have sufficient momentum/traction to maintain forward velocity/motion.

    (b) you lift 1 wheel, and at least 1 wheel on the other axle has insufficient traction to maintain forward motion.

    Case b is easier. The wheel that lifts off the ground will start to spin at DOUBLE the rotational velocity (rotate twice as fast). e.g. for a 4.7:1 diff, it will suddenly rotate like a 2.35:1 diff. This exacerbates the problem. Since 2 wheels are now spinning at 2.35:1 (quite fast) - the shock loading when the wheel returns to the ground can break something - as the wheel must come to a dead stop. A wheel on the 2nd axle doesn't need to lift, just have sufficiently low traction to spin (compared to the alternate wheel).

    case a - the wheel that lifts will still turn twice as fast as the other 3 - since the other wheel on the same axle will be effectively receiving NO DRIVE. However, when it comes back to earth, the shock loading won't be as high.

    I don't think you could ever break anything (in a 2.25P/D) by driving dirt roads in high range 2wd.
    .........

    Actually it is worse than you picture.

    1. In 2wd - a wheel lifts, and the engine, now unloaded, but with the accelerator still in the same position, accelerates, with all the increased speed going at half the diff ratio to the unloaded wheel. When it grips again, the engine has to slow immediately to match the vehicle speed, putting a shock load on the entire drive train, including both half axles.

    3. In four wheel drive, if one wheel loses grip, the engine cannot speed up, since it is constrained by the other axle, so the unloaded wheel does not speed up, and there is no shock load when it regains grip (there may be a little shock as slack is taken up.

    4. I am quite prepared to believe that severe potholes or corrugations could damage axles on the 2/2a with the 2.25, especially if shock absorbers are not too good, because of the very large number of shocks.

    5. A locked diff also prevents this shock load problem, but has the alternative axle breaking scenario that it is possible to put all the torque to one side when the other loses grip - suddenly increasing and decreasing this load as the other wheel loses grip with similar effect, and of course in low gear, even in high range, it is probably easy to get close to axle breaking loads without invoking fatigue failure due to repeated load cycling.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  2. #22
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    Thank you Aaron, for your wonderfully lucid answer and indeed to everyone else for your posts!

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Actually it is worse than you picture.

    1. In 2wd - a wheel lifts, and the engine, now unloaded, but with the accelerator still in the same position, accelerates, with all the increased speed going at half the diff ratio to the unloaded wheel. When it grips again, the engine has to slow immediately to match the vehicle speed, putting a shock load on the entire drive train, including both half axles.

    3. In four wheel drive, if one wheel loses grip, the engine cannot speed up, since it is constrained by the other axle, so the unloaded wheel does not speed up, and there is no shock load when it regains grip (there may be a little shock as slack is taken up.

    4. I am quite prepared to believe that severe potholes or corrugations could damage axles on the 2/2a with the 2.25, especially if shock absorbers are not too good, because of the very large number of shocks.

    5. A locked diff also prevents this shock load problem, but has the alternative axle breaking scenario that it is possible to put all the torque to one side when the other loses grip - suddenly increasing and decreasing this load as the other wheel loses grip with similar effect, and of course in low gear, even in high range, it is probably easy to get close to axle breaking loads without invoking fatigue failure due to repeated load cycling.

    John
    Both my scenarios were in low range (4x4). The torque loads going through the axles in high range would be reduced by a factor of 2.5. The shock loading of a spinning wheel coming back down would in theory be the same though, but you could exert more than twice the torque to keep it turning in low (e.g. when foot is still on the throttle when it comes back down).

    I accept your comments, however I think the only way you could break things in a stock IIA used only in high range would be if you were carrying heavy loads and/or towing.

  4. #24
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    Another danger of reverse cluth

    Quote Originally Posted by Olive Drab View Post
    The last one I broke was clutch starting my 109 in reverse on concrete in the driveway. Somebody must have left the lights on. This turned out to be a tuff day as I had already broken a front axle and had to get my brother with his landcruiser to push me back up the street and back into the driveway. i hate listening to toyota owners
    __________________________________________________ _____

    When clutch starting in reverce you stand a good chance of doing damage to your crown wheel and pinion as the shock load is taken up on the back side of the c&p causeing teeth to be broken or weakend

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by isuzurover View Post
    Both my scenarios were in low range (4x4). The torque loads going through the axles in high range would be reduced by a factor of 2.5. The shock loading of a spinning wheel coming back down would in theory be the same though, but you could exert more than twice the torque to keep it turning in low (e.g. when foot is still on the throttle when it comes back down).

    I accept your comments, however I think the only way you could break things in a stock IIA used only in high range would be if you were carrying heavy loads and/or towing.
    Thanks; another thing I could add is that from what I've seen over the years, there is a good indication that axles have varied significantly in quality. Maybe different batches, perhaps going bad at the peak of Leyland's stewardship in the mid-late seventies. (For any Series Landrover today, it is anyone's guess where the axles in it currently came from!)

    John

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #26
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    To answer the original question I am pretty sure that

    Hi-Tough Engineering
    U3/7 Ryecroft St
    Carrara Qld 4211
    Australia.

    phone 61 (0)7 5530 4123

    Will make you some 10 spline Hytuff axles 10 spline Hytuff axles will be stronger than 24 spline standard axles but they will probably be more expensive than fitting a second hand Salisbury diff centre.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    Thanks; another thing I could add is that from what I've seen over the years, there is a good indication that axles have varied significantly in quality. Maybe different batches, perhaps going bad at the peak of Leyland's stewardship in the mid-late seventies. (For any Series Landrover today, it is anyone's guess where the axles in it currently came from!)

    John

    John
    That is quite true. e.g. - RRC 10-spline axles seem quite strong for their size, as do county fronts (10/23).

    The 24spl axles that replaced them (early '90's vintage) were made of cheese though. Dave Ashcroft tested a 24spl axle and it was no stronger than a 10/23 county axle (failed at the same stress).

    I snapped a (non-genuine) 24spl salisbury axle with 32's and a 2.25D!!! Genuine series 3 (24spl) axles seem fairly strong though.

    Most (orioginal) SII 10-spline axles could be expected to have suffered a fair bit of fatigue by now.

    djam - Hytuff eng/MD axles ar an option, but a few people have broken them. If you are going to the expense - get a 24spl centre and buy 24spl Hytuff axles.

  8. #28
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    Funny you guys talk about differing quality
    I put a detroit locker in the Salisbury on my stage 1 the original axles were given a fairly hard time but never even looked like twisting.
    I bought a brand new genuine set that were in Leyland Australia wrapping paper. Within 4 months and with little off road work I twisted the new set.
    I eventually gave up and bought Maxis last time I looked they were fine.
    Interesting to compare the difference in quality between 10 spline diff centres
    ranging from Series 2a to Range Rovers and Discoveries.
    Discoveries are allegedly made from an inferior grade of steel?? Im sure there will be lots of opinions on that here

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by hodgo View Post
    When clutch starting in reverce you stand a good chance of doing damage to your crown wheel and pinion as the shock load is taken up on the back side of the c&p causeing teeth to be broken or weakend
    When push starting a car backwards, the side of the teeth engaged in the differential, and the direction of the twist applied to the axles and the drive shaft, is actually the same as when you apply drive to go forwards. The difference being that the direction of rotation has reversed. Think about it.

    Aaron.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron IIA View Post
    When push starting a car backwards, the side of the teeth engaged in the differential, and the direction of the twist applied to the axles and the drive shaft, is actually the same as when you apply drive to go forwards. The difference being that the direction of rotation has reversed. Think about it.

    Aaron.
    Yep

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