Thread: SIIA are frustrating things...

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

And the details of this contact ????? ...

Diana

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Originally Posted by JDNSW

As Diana says.

Series 1 and probably S2 had sherardised bolts and nuts and washers, as far as I know now unavailable - although it is possible to do these yourself if yoou are keen enough! John

I am super-keen to do these myself, seeing that the blokes in England either don't reply to letters, or want more than the car is worth!

Fire away John - how do I do it?

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by chazza

I am super-keen to do these myself, seeing that the blokes in England either don't reply to letters, or want more than the car is worth!

Fire away John - how do I do it?

Cheers Charlie

" The first process, that of cleaning, can be done the same way as for galvanising, viz. dipping in dilute acid or sandblasting. The articles are then put into a suitable receptacle, a kind of retort, and surrounded by zinc dust, then subjected to the heat of a fire or gas until they reach 500 - 600F (260-315C). The heat is kept up for a few hours, according to the thickness of coat required, after which the whole is allowed to cool before the receptacle is opened. ...... The retort should be airtight if possible and it is desirable to exhaust the air from within it. If this cannot be done, about 3% of fine powdered carbon should be added." -Spons Workshop Receipts V4, London 1909.

For working on a small scale a section of steel pipe with screwed ends would seem to be suitable. It should be enclosed in a perhaps temporary firebrick enclosure to save heat, and provide with a remote handle to allow it to be turned occasionally, and ideally a temperature gauge of some kind. Gas heating would be suitable, perhaps a modified barbecue. (Note that the device could easily turn into a bomb if it contains any moisture, and a small relief hole might well be a good idea!)

I hope this helps - I have not done it, but have thought about doing it.

John

John

That is interesting, I was always under the impression that the parts were in constant motion during the furnace process, as if in a concrete mixer. However this description suggests that turning occassionally is sufficient.

There must be companies that sheridise in Australia, a lot of the tech screws for exterior use on pine that you buy at hardware stores seems to be sheridised rather than galvanised.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

John

That is interesting, I was always under the impression that the parts were in constant motion during the furnace process, as if in a concrete mixer. However this description suggests that turning occassionally is sufficient.

There must be companies that sheridise in Australia, a lot of the tech screws for exterior use on pine that you buy at hardware stores seems to be sheridised rather than galvanised.

Diana

I didn't quote the whole article, but it seems only occasional turning is needed.

I don't think those screws are sherardised - I think they have some additional coating over the galvanising. The problem with sherardising is that it is a batch process, and takes hours rather than minutes, so it is very unlikely to be used for items that are mass produced - galvanising is automated for things like that.

The article gives the following advantages over galvanising -

Lower temperature, hence less damage to the bits being done.

Does not fill threads and other holes, but gives an even coating regardless of profile, provided the zinc powder is in contact with the whole surface - hence the turning.

An oil film appears not to bother the process, hence freshly cut bolts for example, can go straight in without further cleaning.

Uses less energy - the zinc bath does not have to be kept molten the whole time, and not needing the top open, you can avoid a lot of heat loss, and the whole process occurs about 100C below the melting point of zinc. (This may lead to increased popularity as energy prices rise!)

Less stock of zinc required, and uses less.

John