Thread: clutch slave mounting and adjustment

the lave cylinder mounts from on top of the bracket, there is a limited amount of adjustment on the rod but dont mess with it If it was working before its correct unless youve twisted the flex link between the pivot and the box, there is 2 types of piston and 2 lenghts of protrusion of the cylinder if you miss match them your in trouble, if you put the wrong one on (sounds like you might have put a shorter throwing slave in if youve replaced it) then you will just get a new clutch to the point of disengaging but thats it.

the II and IIa is the easiest to bleed of all the series/county/deefer clutches but you can still occasionally get the airlock in the master cylinder thing occouring and if youve replaced the master cylinder you might also have mis adjusted the push rod.

The check I usually use for air in the system (of a IIA)is to place a jack under the slave cylinder then push a piece of 3/8th rebar up onto the bottom of the slave setup so that the piston cant move down and then give the pedal a go, if its firm from the get go your laughing on the bleed side and its just a case of adjusting everything up.

depending on what parts moving you might have correct travel on the slave and the first half of the linkage only to have the shaft, joint or fork arm shaft twisted so its not getting the movement transmitted.

hope thats helpful.

If you cant get the clutch to work heres how you get the IIA out and in again

start the engine and warm it up, pull the choke out half way till the revs just start to rise. release the park brake, select low range and nuetral on the main box

now with the engine idling smoothly turn it off as the Rpms drop down below idle at EXACTLY the same time slap the main shift into the gear you want (first or reverse) and turn the key back on and if youve got it all right you'll lurch once and take off in the required direction. Kermit ran for about 6 months with a push to kill button mounted on the shifter cause I twisted the arm shaft inside the bell housing and had to wait for a new one but didnt have a second car to use.

best of luck.

(the same trick works in a series III but you select nuetral on the Tcase, select the gear on the main transmission and slap the tcase into gear instead of the main box)

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

Kermit ran for about 6 months with a push to kill button mounted on the shifter cause I twisted the arm shaft inside the bell housing and had to wait for a new one but didnt have a second car to use.

I thought Kermit was a diesel? Have you fitted a solenoid to cut the fuel off?

Aaron.

Kermit was petrol and is now diesel..

one of the many trades I made to get what I consider to be the best of the series bits from all the various models/configurations.


But Im pulling his engine out to put it into the new SIII which I was going to call scooter (its that orangy colour) by might now just call miss piggy.

Why?















because Kermit gave his heart to her.