Thread: Replacing Rear Diff with a Salisbury

If you don't mind having a grader blade under you the sals is a good idea. Unless the Sals came out of a stage 1 should be 4.7:1 same as ser 11a .Just cut old mounts off and graft them on in correct position. Do a small amounts of weilds then let cool so housing doesn't distort. You will also find the tail shaft will need to be shortened. Keep the unis on the same plain of they complain. To rebalance the rear shaft try useing large hose clamps to get it close then tac a small plate of similar weight. Brakes are the other consideration. Suggest to use 109 brakes on front as well. The 6cyl ones are wider. This gives you the option to fit a bigger engine Once done it will never breakTony

You should be able to get a good new long axle for under $100. I bought five new (ex-army) short axles at Cooma for $8 each.

Aaron.

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

If you don't mind having a grader blade under you the sals is a good idea. Unless the Sals came out of a stage 1 should be 4.7:1 same as ser 11a .Just cut old mounts off and graft them on in correct position. Do a small amounts of weilds then let cool so housing doesn't distort. You will also find the tail shaft will need to be shortened. Keep the unis on the same plain of they complain. To rebalance the rear shaft try useing large hose clamps to get it close then tac a small plate of similar weight. Brakes are the other consideration. Suggest to use 109 brakes on front as well. The 6cyl ones are wider. This gives you the option to fit a bigger engine Once done it will never breakTony

thanks sounds like ill be goin the sals then. if i dont have to stuff round with diff ratios just have to get some brakes for it and ill be away and move the mounts and balance the rear shaft and replace the shockies and and and and never stops does it

wont be spending any money til the defender gets done anyway. ill try scrounge stuff off the series III instead. think i can get the brakes out of it and maybe some shockies

Thanks

Originally Posted by Jock The Rock

thanks sounds like ill be goin the sals then. if i dont have to stuff round with diff ratios just have to get some brakes for it and ill be away and move the mounts and balance the rear shaft and replace the shockies and and and and never stops does it

wont be spending any money til the defender gets done anyway. ill try scrounge stuff off the series III instead. think i can get the brakes out of it and maybe some shockies

Thanks

Use the 11A rear plates and shocks. If you have a s111 front bung the lot in. Remember there was some diferences with tie rods in series. Use S111 front and rear shackles, front plates and shocks they longer.Tony

From what you are saying it appears that your 2a is an 88.

While some have fitted a salisbury axle to an 88 the extended fronnt nose compared to the Rover axle means that there is not really enough room for a satisfactory propeller shaft. You will need to shorten the prop shaft and it will then be so short that the universal angles will be excessive, resulting in a very short life for them.

John

Re tail shaft. Yes they have a bad reputation. Don't try to fit long travel shocks. I had an 88 here with sals and was no worse on uni joints than S1 80" I have now with holden conversion. (Gear box was moved back.) Set the angle of Diff correct and it will be fine If there is binding of uni just grind a bit out of yoke. I'd be more concerned about the spline coming out on down travel as angle increases. I will try to dig up pics of 88 that I had sals in. Had no dramas with it at all. Was set up as my previous post. Use the 88 rear shocks and keep the straps on.
I have only had dramas with standard propshaft in springover coversions on 88" Land Rover. Although have sorted it on my 318 powered S1 mud racer. No longer has landy underpinnings Tony

G'Day Jock

I have Rover rear axles if you decide not to put the Salisbury under it. The diff on my donor vehicle is a Rover, the one under Mongrel is a Salsibury so the spares are not needed. I do hope to get an 88' one day but can't justify hording heaps of parts until then .


Cheers Andy

Originally Posted by Rangier Rover

Remember there was some diferences with tie rods in series.

From what I under stand, you can put SIII tie rod ends in SII/SIIA tie rods, but not the other way around. The later tie rod ends have the thread cut all the way to the ball joint, where as on the earlier units, the thread only came down about 75%. Most new joints that are available for sale have the thread going all the way, for maximum compatibility.

Aaron.