Thread: clutch connecting tube alighnment

use a piece of tiewire and haul up on the arm driven by the slave cylinder and tie it up. then grab the shaft that pokes out of the box with the needle nose pliers and grab the shaft then rotate it clockwise when viewed from the side...

chances are that it will overshoot correct alignment and thats ok, just let it ride back a little and then drop the pin in screw it up, bleed the clutch, remove the wire and it should all be good.

did you replace the clutch plates? if you did and youve used the wrong pressure plate then you dont have enough throw on the throwout to get it to disengage and the mechanism has overshot already.

take the inspection plate off of the top of the bell housing and have a look at what the throw out is doing.if you can rotate the shaft all the way forwards and it doesnt obviosly and definatively stick on the throw out fingers (or 3 levers if you have an original 2a clutch) then you need to pull it out and reset the clutch + the throw out....

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

use a piece of tiewire and haul up on the arm driven by the slave cylinder and tie it up. then grab the shaft that pokes out of the box with the needle nose pliers and grab the shaft then rotate it clockwise when viewed from the side...

chances are that it will overshoot correct alignment and thats ok, just let it ride back a little and then drop the pin in screw it up, bleed the clutch, remove the wire and it should all be good.

did you replace the clutch plates? if you did and youve used the wrong pressure plate then you dont have enough throw on the throwout to get it to disengage and the mechanism has overshot already.

take the inspection plate off of the top of the bell housing and have a look at what the throw out is doing.if you can rotate the shaft all the way forwards and it doesnt obviosly and definatively stick on the throw out fingers (or 3 levers if you have an original 2a clutch) then you need to pull it out and reset the clutch + the throw out....

Your spot on there. This happened to me when I done my Ser 11a when I was only 16. It was the arm overshot The darn thing is still going and I'm 41 now.
Tony

Dave

You're a lifesaver......replaced the throwout bearing and thought I'ld put the shaft back in wrong......will give it a go on my next days off, Thanks mate!

Tony

Very encouraging, hope it works for me.

Ray

You may have put the fork in the incorrect position on the spline. The manual is quite particular about this process. If twisting the shaft is still going to operate the clutch, it might be easier to make a new connecting tube, drilling the two holes in a new alignment that suits your application.

Aaron.

Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

You may have put the fork in the incorrect position on the spline. The manual is quite particular about this process. If twisting the shaft is still going to operate the clutch, it might be easier to make a new connecting tube, drilling the two holes in a new alignment that suits your application.

Aaron.

Or drill new holes in the existing tube - but I think this is hardened (which means a replacement should be), and also, having the hole in a different orientation may make it hard to get the pin in - its hard enough anyway!

John

Thanks John/AAron

Ive tried what Dave suggested but the tube dosnt want to budge, Drilling a new hole in the tube sounds like it could be the go but can't see how i can get the tube off due to the internal pin/split pin.

AAron, you're probable right, it sounds like not aligning the fork on the spline.......at least I didnt have all the floors/seats back in. Jeese i love my old girl but she frustrates the hell out of me......Any other suggestions are more than welcome

Ray

All of the original tubes that I have seen are made from an oversized tube, squished down either end at 90deg to the other. this would suggest that they were mild. The squishing down allows a flat spot for the hole to be drilled through. It would be near impossible to drill new holes at different angles, as these would now be on the sharp radius of the squish, rather than on the flats. I made my new one from a piece of tube that better suited the shaft to overcome the problem of hole misalignment.

Cheers Aaron,

How did you get the tube out?, I havent removed the rubber yet but cant imagine being able to get to the other split pin I dont remember removing the Spline from the fork so could it be something else?

Cheers

Ray