IIA crunchy cornering... bearings?

**JDNSW** · 25th November 2008, 03:10 PM

Originally Posted by Shonky

I was worried you would say that John.

All of the rollers seem in good order, and all of the circlips were firmly in situ.

If it isn't the UJ, it has to be something else. There was minor scoring on the flanges of the stub shaft - could it have been grinding against the swivel pin housing?

The only way the stub shaft can touch anything is if the swivel bush/bearing have free play - or possibly if the steering stop is set to allow it to turn too far. I would look very carefully at the swivels - with the stub axle off, disconnect the tie rod and drag link and check the preload on the swivel - strictly need to remove the seal to do this, but you can tell if there is a problem if the force to turn the swivel housing is less than about 14 pounds. You may not need to go even this far to tell if this is the problem - if there is any free play at all, you need to deal with it. The scoring could reflect an earlier episode when the swivel was loose of course - in the oily environment it would still look fresh. (there is a slight chance that the bearing on the diff side of the U-joint has failed, but this is almost unheard of unless run dry)

John

**Shonky** · 25th November 2008, 04:06 PM

Thanks, as per usual John.

How do I check preload? Do I need a 'special tool' for that?

Since my UJ seems to be okay, can I repack the rollers and keep it as a spare?

**JDNSW** · 25th November 2008, 04:29 PM

Originally Posted by Shonky

Thanks, as per usual John.

How do I check preload? Do I need a 'special tool' for that?

Preload is checked using a spring balance - like used for weighing your fish. Disconnect the track rod and drag link and measure the force needed to turn it, using the hole the track rod was in. This without the big seal installed. Adjust with shims under the top pin, but if there is any play, you need to take it apart and check the bottom bearing and the top bush, replacing as necessary. See the manual (and if you don't have one, get one! The factory one is the best).

Since my UJ seems to be okay, can I repack the rollers and keep it as a spare?

Yes, although it is not good practice unless you have kept track of which cup fits on which arm. But unless you allow the swivels to run dry, you are pretty unlikely to need a spare, particularly since at worst you can remove the half axle and run in 2wd until you get one.

Hope that helps

John

**Shonky** · 26th November 2008, 06:51 AM

Thanks JD.

Weigh my fish? I just eat my fish!

I have a workshop manual and a Haynes Restoration manual.

I will check them when I get a chance (next week)

Seems like there is no point resurrecting the old UJ. Oh well.

Thanks a heap mate - as usual your knowledge and advice are greatly appreciated.

**Shonky** · 8th January 2009, 08:52 AM

Okay... well I still haven't done anything about this - mainly because I don't have a spring balance and I have come to the conclusion that I am out of my depth considering the short timeframe.

(not to mention I have been flat out on the rest of the truck...)

Australia Day is looming and I am going away to Queensland the week before, so now I am starting to stress...

1: Is it possible to drive it to the City and back (~30kms each way) in it's current state? (undesireable)

2: If I took it to the mechanic down the road and said "fix it" is there a good chance they would solve the problem, or is this a Landy-ism that will only confuse the average spanner spinner?

3: Does anyone want to spend a day with me showing me how it is done? I will even take a day off work.

**JDNSW** · 8th January 2009, 10:40 AM

Originally Posted by Shonky

Okay... well I still haven't done anything about this - mainly because I don't have a spring balance and I have come to the conclusion that I am out of my depth considering the short timeframe.

(not to mention I have been flat out on the rest of the truck...)

Australia Day is looming and I am going away to Queensland the week before, so now I am starting to stress...

1: Is it possible to drive it to the City and back (~30kms each way) in it's current state? (undesireable)

Sudden failure is most unlikely, so you should be OK.

2: If I took it to the mechanic down the road and said "fix it" is there a good chance they would solve the problem, or is this a Landy-ism that will only confuse the average spanner spinner?

It is a Landyism - but if the spanner spinner is worth his salt he should be able to fix it, perhaps helped by a printout of the relevant parts of this thread plus the manual.

3: Does anyone want to spend a day with me showing me how it is done? I will even take a day off work.

Bit far away, but there may be someone closer.

John

**Shonky** · 8th January 2009, 12:32 PM

Thanks John - I certainly didn't expect you to drive 4 hours to give me a hand, (!) however I had a good idea that you would be first up to provide sound advice and that is more appreciated than you could know...

I'm glad to hear that it wont likely fail on me - I will still try and get it fixed but if I don't then at least it wont be a disaster...

There is more at stake here than my desire to display him at motorfest... I have basically put everything on hold to get Ambrose this far in three months. If it doesn't make it to Australia Day then I will feel as if I could have just taken my time and spent some more time with my neglected lady instead.

I will try and fix it myself with help, but worst comes to worst I will try the local mechanic with help, and worst scenario I just drive it as is...

**UncleHo** · 12th January 2009, 09:56 AM

G'day Shonky

You should be able to get a spring scale (fish scale) from such places as BCF or a good bait shop, or even at BigW fishing camping section, then just read and follow the instructions in your Haynes manual

it will take you a few hours to do but is do-able with home tools, and GET A GOOD JACK AND AXLE STANDS

as Bloodboxes are heavy when the fall on you, you finish up crushed

the swilel housing bolts are BSF size but you can use AF or Metric providing they are a neat fit, what I would be looking at first is if there are rub marks on the chassis rail at the rear of the tyre arc, as if the steering lock stops have been bent/broken/ removed so as to get a better turning circle then the tyre will rub on the chassis 9about the rear of front spring,and as the tread rubs on the chassis it sounds like the car is disintergrating

there will also be slight damage to the inside corners of the tread.

cheers

**Shonky** · 12th January 2009, 10:11 AM

Well I was hoping that this one would slip into the ether...

but I guess I had better tell you how it all panned out.

Fellow LROCS member Bob Shannon (bobslandies) dropped around on Friday and had a look for me. Two things were causing the crunching noises. Neither were as serious as I had thought, neither were expensive to fix, and Bob had both problems diagnosed and fixed in three minutes flat and with no tools.

It goes to show that no amount of reading or asking is worth anywhere near as much as decades of experience!

1: The dog clutch in the transfer case hadn't fully disengaged.
Solution - yank transfer lever back and forth a few times.
Time - 2 minutes
Cost- $0.00

2: The tyres were rubbing on the springs. (Good guess Kev...)
Solution - don't turn wheel so much until I can adjust the lock stops.
Time - 1 minute
Cost - $0.00

Originally Posted by UncleHo

as the tread rubs on the chassis it sounds like the car is disintergrating

You are right about that!

I was convinced Ambrose was about to lose a hub or something!

Lesson learned and stored in brain.

**Xtreme** · 12th January 2009, 12:09 PM

That's good news Andrew - see you on Australia Day at the Motorfest.
Bob has a wealth of experience and puts an amazing effort into ensuring that we have an excellent display of Landys at these displays.

Roger

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