Thread: fuel sender & guage

Definitely the later 2a with the regulator on the bulkhead. Am pretty sure has landy sender as well. the previous owner went through several tanks during it's life on the beach, and by the state of the screws i imagine he never bothered keeping the original sender with the car.
I'll be seeing you soon John

you havent got a dodgy fuel guage, its a wallet guage, when the tank is full, your wallet is empty, but by the time the tank empties, your wallet better be full!!!

using that principal was the basis for the wallet/fuel guage for landrovers....
see new fuel guages...


cheers
digger

Originally Posted by JDNSW

There are two types of gauge - the earlier type operates by the repulsion of two coils and shows instantaneous changes in fuel level, and does not use a voltage regulator. The later type uses a thermal type gauge, same as the water temperature gauge, which moves only slowly, and has an external voltage regulator, which in the 2a is on the bulkhead behind the instruments, and on the 3 is on the back of the speedo.

Neither gauge is polarity sensitive, so the reverse reading can only be given by using the wrong sender with it. I'd have to have a look at the sender to see if it is possible to have the float set up to give reverse operation, but I do not think it is possible.

John

Hi John, I'm having an amusing time with the fuel gauge, so I thought I could restart this thread and follow on from your comments above.

Start point - the fuel gauge isn't reading right, it always reads 3/4 full or above.

Known facts:
The gauge cluster is a Jaeger 560744, which corresponds to a IIa suffix D on. It reads empty when a 300 ohm resistance is put in series with it, full with zero ohms. It doesn't matter which 12v polarity is applied to the gauge.

The sender reads zero ohms on empty, 70 ohms full. It has part number 5347/07 on it, which corresponds to 519838 in the parts manual, which corresponds to a IIa up to suffix C.

It seems clear I have a sender/gauge mismatch.

Can you, or anyone, confirm that I should install sender 555844 to sort out the problem?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

Originally Posted by JDNSW

Unfortunately Rob, while there is no such thing as a positive earth gauge - the gauge and sender changed when they went from positive to negative earth in 1967. The senders and gauges are not compatible, and the senders work in the opposite sense. So you will get this effect by mixing the gauge and sender types.

There are two types of gauge - the earlier type operates by the repulsion of two coils and shows instantaneous changes in fuel level, and does not use a voltage regulator. The later type uses a thermal type gauge, same as the water temperature gauge, which moves only slowly, and has an external voltage regulator, which in the 2a is on the bulkhead behind the instruments, and on the 3 is on the back of the speedo.

Neither gauge is polarity sensitive, so the reverse reading can only be given by using the wrong sender with it. I'd have to have a look at the sender to see if it is possible to have the float set up to give reverse operation, but I do not think it is possible.

John

Yeah, I observed just that when I put a gauge from a Series III into my IIA. Had to have the right sender, if I remember correctly.....

Originally Posted by peterg1001

Hi John, I'm having an amusing time with the fuel gauge, so I thought I could restart this thread and follow on from your comments above.

Start point - the fuel gauge isn't reading right, it always reads 3/4 full or above.

Known facts:
The gauge cluster is a Jaeger 560744, which corresponds to a IIa suffix D on. It reads empty when a 300 ohm resistance is put in series with it, full with zero ohms. It doesn't matter which 12v polarity is applied to the gauge.

The sender reads zero ohms on empty, 70 ohms full. It has part number 5347/07 on it, which corresponds to 519838 in the parts manual, which corresponds to a IIa up to suffix C.

It seems clear I have a sender/gauge mismatch.

Can you, or anyone, confirm that I should install sender 555844 to sort out the problem?

Thanks in advance,
Peter

Yes, although I can't confirm the part number as I am overseas.

John

Originally Posted by peterg1001

Known facts:
The gauge cluster is a Jaeger 560744, which corresponds to a IIa suffix D on. It reads empty when a 300 ohm resistance is put in series with it, full with zero ohms. It doesn't matter which 12v polarity is applied to the gauge.

The sender reads zero ohms on empty, 70 ohms full. It has part number 5347/07 on it, which corresponds to 519838 in the parts manual, which corresponds to a IIa up to suffix C.

It seems clear I have a sender/gauge mismatch.

Can you, or anyone, confirm that I should install sender 555844 to sort out the problem?

OK, it's confirmed. Sender 555844 reads 280 ohms empty, zero ohms full and matches cluster 560744. My fuel gauge now works.

Peter

Originally Posted by Aaron IIA

It is possible to convert the sender to work from one style of guage to the other style of guage. Take the top off of the sender to reveal the resistive coil. At one end of it, it will be connected to a stud which goes through the housing to connect to the wire which goes to the guage. To convert the sender, you need to connect the other end of the coil to the stud. Do not reverse the physical direction of the coil, as this will have no effect. You need to run a wire from the opposite end of the coil (from what it is now) to the stud.

You want to end up with a sender as follows:

Opposing coils guage (instant, early type)
Tank empty = min resistance (about 0 ohms) sender to earth
Tank full = max resistance sender to earth

Thermo type guage (slow to react, late type)
Tank empty = max resistance
Tank full = min resistance

I dont know if the guage will be calibrated very accurate if the reversal process is conducted, but at least the needle will swing in the correct direction.

Aaron.

What you've said is correct Aaron but the calibration will be out and if you convert a twin coil to a Bi-metal it is likely to burn it out. the reason being:
Twin coil E-0 Ohms F-75 Ohms
Bi-Metal E-19 Ohms F-260 Ohms

Yes they will go ing the right direction but not calibrate correct. Also if you put 0 Ohms on a Bi-metal for to long it will fry.

PM Me if you want a solution to the problem. (No spruking allowed )

And JDNSW, What do you do for a crust you know you stuff about gauges???

Cheers,