Pete
The only better one IMHO is the 1970 with the wide headlights.
If you want a series LR then a '68 is a good way to go.
Diana
P.S. No Holden conversions!
Shall we buy it!
We have found a 1968 swb s2a hard top
Chassis is perfect,
bulkhead is very good.
Panel work is straight
114k recorded miles
All fluids clean
good paint - has been resprayed
Original LR 4 cyl Petrol. Started instantly from cold.
green..
un registered.
He wants $2.5k
Reckon we can get it for $2k
Opinions!!?
Rgds
Pete.
Pete
The only better one IMHO is the 1970 with the wide headlights.
If you want a series LR then a '68 is a good way to go.
Diana
P.S. No Holden conversions!
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
As Diana says, just about the best Landrover made in many respects. And, gently disagreeing with Diana, I prefer the narrow set headlights - less easily damaged.
It all depends on how good it is. If you don't have to spend much that price is quite reasonable if it is straight and free of significant rust.
Some of the things to look for that could cost - mostly not that expensive but add up rapidly! :-
Brakes - if it has been out of use assume you need to replace or at least overhaul all wheel cylinders plus m/c, possibly need to replace contaminated linings. Similarly, assume you have to replace the clutch master and slave.
Have a look at the door seals and other body rubbers - these get expensive!
Blinker switch - is the rubber tyred wheel OK?
Steering wheel - how bad a shape is it in?
Has the wiring been bodgied?
Has it been fitted with an alternator? If not, plan on doing it - the generators do not like Australian dust.
Hub and transfer case and diff seals - are they weeping ? Likely to need replacing if it has been standing.
If the drive flanges are leaking where they seal onto the hub, this is often a symptom that the wheel bearings need adjusting.
Have a look at the seals on the balls on the front axle - if they are leaking badly, the swivels probably need attention - if they are not at least oily, the swivels probably have no oil in them, and if they have been that way for long or have grease in them, the swivels and u-joints need at least stripping for inspection. Check the balls themselves - if the chrome surface is peeling or significantly scratched - the replacements are expensive. (seals and swivel pins, bushes and bearings are not too costly, but they add up)
Check for steering free play - should be very little, if there is more than about 5cm on the wheel rim find where it is - tie rod ends are pretty cheap - but there are six of them! Relay units are not particularly expensive, but are usually a real pig to get out. Steering boxes are expensive.
Check whether the springs are in reasonable shape - replacements are expensive, although often they can be resuscitated by stripping the spring and cleaning the leaves and reassembling and possibly resetting.
It should have a Zenith carburetter, and it is likely that this will need some attention, but if you do this yourself should not be expensive. If it has been replaced with a Holden carburetter, in my view these are less than satisfactory, and a new or good s/h Zenith or Weber or even Solex will be expensive.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
if the chassis is good and the bulkhead is good if when it drives it does what it should without making excessive noises for what it is buy it.
everything else on the vehicle is a doddle to fix and if you know nothing about mechanicing then the meccano tech of the series is an ideal place to learn.
its also not that expensive. Ive overhauled every sub assembly on a series rover and gotten change out of $4k that includes
the engine mains rings seals, gaskets and the head gasket
water pump and radiator rodding
The gearbox/tcase bearings and seals
the Uj's in both axles
the all the bearings in the diffs
the wheel bearings and seals
new brake shoes + drum skim
hone and reseal all slave cylinders
new spring bushes
replacement tie rods
swivel bearings
tyres.
admitedly I was doing a lot of the work myself but its not exactly rocket surgery.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
Rust-free chassis and a runner - sounds pretty good. As Blknight.aus said - if it drives OK, engine goes OK, has no major 'something wrong' noises and bangs then everything else is easy. Check if there is no excessive smoke ...
And yes, lights in the rad panel is the classic Land Rover look. I think it is worth it, but pics would be nice.
Thanks for the replies, Diana, John and Dave. (and Turtle)
I am pretty keen on it. Havent driven it yet, but will do before I make the desicion.
Only 5 minutes from home too!!
Few things, Springs look good ( I had a 68 s2a swb as my first car in the UK) It has a Holden Carb on it (good guess John) and it has a bit of a flat spot when reving it, but the roiginal is with it, It actually has the series 3 wings with the lights in (I am guessing some sort of change over model) Also has s3 type wiper motor setup.
Its had all new wheel cylinders apparently, Swivels look good, Wiring has been messed about with a bit but not too bad. Little bit of firewall rust in in drivers floor panel. Should be an easy repair.
Little bit of play in one ball joint.
Steering wheel looks ok but cant say I took a lot of notice!!
It does need the damper bushes on the front at least
Seats have been retrimmed.
Door seals could probably do with some replacements (but then it is 40yrs old and probably no worse than my 6 yr old 90!)
It has 8 spokes and wide tyres, but the originals are with it. (and some other spares)
Thanks again.
Update you later in the week on our desicion.
Rgds
Pete
p.s Diana, I wont be fitting a Holden!! It would actually be for Sam
Sounds like a right little corker.
Good luck with the purchase.
Do it! Sounds bonza!
[B][I]Andrew[/I][/B]
[COLOR="YellowGreen"][U]1958 Series II SWB - "Gus"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="DarkGreen"][U]1965 Series IIA Ambulance 113-896 - "Ambrose"[/U][/COLOR]
[COLOR="#DAA520"][U]1981 Mercedes 300D[/U][/COLOR]
[U]1995 Defender 110[/U]
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Pete
I'm not sure I know what you mean about SIII wiper motor, however if you are suggesting the cable operated wipers with the motor in the LHS parcel shelf. That was standard on all Series 2a from 1967 onwards.
I don't know John, there is something to be said about the cross-eyed Landies,
but I still prefer the wide set lights. These were standard on all vehicles from suffix G.
BTW. If it is a Grenville Motors car PM me with the chassis number and I may have some history for you.
Diana
You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.
Hi Diana,
Yep thats what I mean. That would make sense as my 65 didnt have them and my 68 did!
You know an awful lot about LR's!!
I will go and have another look at it either tommorow, Friday or Monday depending on work, and make the decision!
Thanks for the info!
I have also spoken to my brother in the UK who has my old one which now has new everything and he reckons I should buy it too!
I can then retire the 90
Rgds
Pete
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