Thread: Twice my age, crosseyed and can't hold her fluids in but ain't she sweet

G'day Series 3 and Andrew,
The engine needs a little tidying before I put it in, and since I work at the speed of continental drift...
First enginework day is this Sunday if anyone would like to lend a hand...
-Mark

Gah... can't. Playing tankies...

Whats on the agenda?

Im afraid I can't help you out mate, I'm out of town. Let me know another weekend and I should be able to give you a hand.

Agenda is to get it off the trailer, take off the head and have a look inside, take the sump off and ogle its insides from that angle, flush out the water galleries, and make a list of things I need to do and buy.

Here is the start of a list of stuff I want/need:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/marketplac...her-stuff.html

Would you like an engine stand?

Makes life a million billion trillion times easier.

Just make sure you don't pull out the roatation lock pin by accident while it's still full of oil...

Mmm yes please on the engine stand, I ran out of credit so couldn't reply to your SMS Tuesday night...shoulda reminded me it was LROCS night! I could have brought along a...flywheel...or something for show and tell
Come on round this arvo or tomorrow arvo if you would like. I've gained a few toys since you've visited.

LROCS Committee night. Club meets are finished for the year.

On Sunday, my mate Will gave me a hand checking out the condition of the engine.
First up we flushed the water galleries as best we could, there was a lot of gunk built up, some reasonably sized rust chunks came out too. There is still muck in it but I'd estimate that 3/4 is out now. I'll tip the engine on its side and flush the rest out another day.
Once things dried a little, we dropped the sump, flipped the engine over and all seemed pretty good visually:


The sump had a little oil in it, thankfully no water. Though it was black, the oil wasn't hiding any wasted metal. Everything inside had a healthy film of oil on it so there isn't any internal corrosion.
We tried to turn it over with the crank handle but it was either seized or the compression was too much for us!

So we made a start on the top end of things:

The injector nozzles were clean, and the glow plugs appeared in good condition. I have to test both injectors and plugs yet, but at least they aren't hard to replace. Glad they aren't $5000 TD5 injectors!

The cylinder bores are all smooth and shiny. There is a little crud around the edges of the pistons.


The pistons are all numbered, yet they look identical in the parts diagrams, are they?
I could turn the engine over really easily with the crank handle now, thankfully.
The gasket is in great condition, so will be kept as a spare.
Some of the water galleries were pretty crusty with rust and gunk, probably reducing the flow rate to about half to the head. More flushing required.

I now understand when people say how simple and easy to work on these engines are. Once we got stuck in to it, there was nothing daunting at all, just a matter of following the order in the book, not rushing it and sometimes getting a bigger lever for the torqued-up head bolts.

This engine has a double V pulley on the crank, just like military 2.25Ps, and the crank seal has the RAEME screw modification to make changing the seals easy. Little concessions to later be thankful of

Did the diesel's have the 4 blade fan or the 8 blade that the military 2a's had/have? I have a couple of 4 bladers if anyone wants to swap for an 8?

I have reassembled the engine but not tightened anything down, so will have to get a gasket set and clean the insides properly before the weather finds it.
Is using metho and a lint-free rag okay for cleaning gunk from cylinders/pistons? Perhaps petrol or another high-flashpoint solvent? I don't want to take the pistons out as I don't have a piston ring compressing tool.
Any hints or tips most welcome

-Mark