Thread: Twice my age, crosseyed and can't hold her fluids in but ain't she sweet

Originally Posted by longing4alandy

Twice my age, crosseyed and can't hold her fluids in but ain't she sweet

Originally Posted by longing4alandy

(needs a name asap)

Cougar

Courtney (Cox)

Alan

Well.
I like the idea of having a pristine restored vehicle with history.
But I need a vehicle I can drive and enjoy.
My plans don't exclude reconversion back to the condition it is in now.
So the diesel engine will go into it, once registered etc I'll take the time to reco the petrol engine and mothball it along with the other bits and pieces I don't use.

Then one day I'll buy myself a County and reconvert Dirty Mary aka Black Maria

Thanks to everyones suggestions



Dave, Shonky dropped off the bullbar today, it's a very nice piece of work! Think I might have a bit of trouble because the posts are slightly (about 1cm overlap per headlight) too close for the headlights, meaning there wouldn't be any lateral spread. Will experiment but I don't like my chances. Its just about perfect to what I wanted too

Originally Posted by longing4alandy

Well.
I like the idea of having a pristine restored vehicle with history.
But I need a vehicle I can drive and enjoy.
My plans don't exclude reconversion back to the condition it is in now.
So the diesel engine will go into it, once registered etc I'll take the time to reco the petrol engine and mothball it along with the other bits and pieces I don't use.

Then one day I'll buy myself a County and reconvert Dirty Mary aka Black Maria

Thanks to everyones suggestions



Dave, Shonky dropped off the bullbar today, it's a very nice piece of work! Think I might have a bit of trouble because the posts are slightly (about 1cm overlap per headlight) too close for the headlights, meaning there wouldn't be any lateral spread. Will experiment but I don't like my chances. Its just about perfect to what I wanted too

That's cool - take your time (I'm charging daily)...

I have just let mine lapse but I was on full comp historic rego with suncorp and it was only a slight bit more then just getting 3rd party property. I had it at an agreed $4500. They were really easy to deal with and they were the ones that recommended i go historic.

Originally Posted by longing4alandy

While chasing insurance I have been asked to email a photo to an insurance co so they can work out what a 1963 Land Rover series 2a is, because its not in their register. This is ridiculous. The insurance company calling themselves Australian 4WD Insurance (DGA Insurance), and they don't have old Land Rovers.
Not to mention they won't insure me till i'm 25.
Lumley Special Vehicles won't insure because I can't keep it garaged and actually wish to drive it.
Shannons won't insure under 25s.
Just Car don't recognise 1963 Land Rovers.
QBE don't do old cars.
Commbank doesn't have Land Rovers pre 72
Allianz ditto
Ecar, nothing pre 1984 Land Rover
NRMA Classic car division requires garaged storage.
NRMA comprehensive actually will cover me, woah, incredulous.

I'm starting to enjoy chasing insurance quotes, baffling the poor telephonic experts.

Well well well, last week I read this thread start to finish and got reinvigorated.
Just a few posts up, I was saying that i'd put the diesel in, and when I got a County i'd go back to the petrol engine.
Well now I have the Isuzu County i'd always wanted and its nearly mechanically sorted so at least its safe and reliable, while poor Mary was left forgotten in the carport whilst I and my father parked on the street.

I'm going to get her finished with the petrol motor, and save the diesel for the future. To this end I need to get the dodgy core plugs out of the head, and change the front crank seal. Parts are to hand.
Tried to remove the core plugs today, 3/4 of them were peaned over, 4/4 won't budge. So the head will come off and get tested, planed and cleaned. I'll do that in the coming week or two.

I then tried to take the crank dog off to get closer to the crank seal, I can wind the whole vehicle up the driveway but can't budge the crank dog.
I unbent the lock washer tabs, i sprayed penetrating oil on it every day for a week. I looked at the diesel engine and couldn't see a grub screw or anything else. I put the vehicle in high range 4th with the handbrake on and wheels chocked. I don't have a spanner or socket big enough, so I am using Shonky's largest shifter. As stated earlier, I can move the vehicle but not shift the crank dog. I presume to remove it I must turn it in the opposite direction to when I hand crank it.
Have I missed something here on getting the crank dog off?


EDIT: This new found interest in ye olde Series was mainly brought on after conversing with fellow series owners; Series3, Dullbird, Dmmos in particular.

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

........
Have I missed something here on getting the crank dog off?
...........

It is, as you surmised, a normal RH thread. Perhaps what you have missed is the recommended torque - 150lb ft. That is tight; and it has probably been that way for several decades, so I estimate it will need at least double that figure to move it!

John

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

I then tried to take the crank dog off to get closer to the crank seal, I can wind the whole vehicle up the driveway but can't budge the crank dog.
I unbent the lock washer tabs, i sprayed penetrating oil on it every day for a week. I looked at the diesel engine and couldn't see a grub screw or anything else. I put the vehicle in high range 4th with the handbrake on and wheels chocked. I don't have a spanner or socket big enough, so I am using Shonky's largest shifter. As stated earlier, I can move the vehicle but not shift the crank dog.

They can be very tight, so try the following:
1. Use low range; hand-brake on; 1st gear; chock all four wheels.
2. Get rid of the shifter before it buggers the hex and buy the proper socket. Measure across the flats with a vernier caliper and buy a good quality socket such as Sidchrome. Whilst you are at the shop, buy the longest breaker bar they have to go with it. Measure the length of the dog as well because you may need an extra-deep socket. If a socket won't work buy a ring spanner.
3. Try loosening the dog with the socket and bar - using a pipe as an extension is OK, provided you respect that you might bend or break the spanner if you use too much force. Aim to double the length of the bar with less force than you used on the bar alone.
4. If the car moves chain it to another car, or sizeable tree, low down.
5. Hire or borrow an oxy-acetylene set and heat the hex to just below red-heat if the above have not worked.
6. Try loosening it again when it is warm - this has always worked for me!

Before putting it back on, grease with Loctite anti-seize.

I have read of an alternative method, which I have never tried, in which the spanner is placed on the dog and the engine is then cranked on the starter, whilst in neutral. The spanner then describes an arc and bashes into the chassis, at which point it is supposed to shock-loose the dog. I don't like the sound of it (although it is supposed to work) because of the potential damage to the chassis and spanner and possibly the starter,

Cheers Charlie

Hey mate if you are doing any midweek work days on the car, let me know I can come and give a hand.