Thread: Gearbox issue

Problem with getting a second hand gearbox is being sure it is any better than the one you have, although this is likely to be cheaper than getting the gearbox overhauled.

It is likely that the problem is a bearing is failing and that simply replacing bearings and seals will give it a new lease of life. Continued use of it with these symptoms could lead to you being stranded somewhere.

John

Thanks John, I am in the process of removing the box at the moment so I wont be doing any driving on it until I have solved the problem. I didn't ralise how much of a pain in the backside it is to remove a landy box. I have removed many other vehicles gearboxes and this is the most involved by far.

Originally Posted by Seriestwo

Thanks John, I am in the process of removing the box at the moment so I wont be doing any driving on it until I have solved the problem. I didn't ralise how much of a pain in the backside it is to remove a landy box. I have removed many other vehicles gearboxes and this is the most involved by far.

In the original soft top it is not too bad, but with any other body type removing the engine+gearbox as a unit from the front is often worthwhile, although in any case having body bolts that can be undone is a real advantage!

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

In the original soft top it is not too bad, but with any other body type removing the engine+gearbox as a unit from the front is often worthwhile, although in any case having body bolts that can be undone is a real advantage!

John

I agree it would be easier that way. I have removed the interior in which the previous owner decided to tec screw the carpet down using around 50 or so tec screws, now tomorrow I am going to remove the transfer case and the gearbox. I am glad I am not paying someone to do it as it would cost a fortune in labour.

SIII Gearboxes changed quite a bit through the suffixes (A to D) and some parts are not interchangable.

There's not a lot in them though and they should be pretty easy to rebuild. Fourwheeldrives in Melbourne still sell most parts.

You can cut the crossmember, weld on flanges for bolts to bolt it back up, and remove the box from underneath. It's also possible to remove the t/case (by dismantling it in situ virtually) and then remove the box from underneath.

The easiest way is to unbolt the grille from the chassis and the front guards (also the lower section of the guard) from the firewall. Then unplug all the wiring (or cut it and add plugs), undo the linkages and the radiator hoses, the remove the grilled with the radiator and the front panels as one unit. You can do it on your own, but 2 people can balance it better,

Then you have the motor sitting on a chassis. You can remove the motor & gearbox together. This way you don't need to crane it out at a high angle, you can work all around it, and it won't scrape any of your guards. Then remove and repair the box, while you're at it, insulate the firewall, fix oil leaks on the motor....... etc.

I reckon they should have hinged the grille panel and clamped the guards to the firewall, then you could just flip the whole front of the car open for working on the engine without having to reach over the guards.

By the way, I'm clearing my shed and I have a SII box complete and one in bits - free to a good home, but I'm in Melbourne, and it won't really help with the SIII box.

Originally Posted by Michael2

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I reckon they should have hinged the grille panel and clamped the guards to the firewall, then you could just flip the whole front of the car open for working on the engine without having to reach over the guards.

The mudguards are actually attached to the firewall by screws that mostly do not have to be completely remove, and I have daydreamed about such a modification. But if the bolts are not seized, it is possible to remove a mudguard in about ten minutes. I would be inclined to remove them separately to remove the engine.

John

I got so good at taking the floor and seatbox out of my 2a I could do it (including shifting all my everyday-use garbage) in just under an hour... But yeah it's very involved. Though I heard the other day that some newer cars with independent front suspension need the entire front axle dropped down to take the engine out! I'll stick with the simplicity of my Landies, thanks...

I've also found it a bit easier to fit and remove the gearbox and transfer case as separate pieces - not so heavy and awkward to align the splines.

Another diagnosis: seeing as it mainly affects 2nd and 3rd gears, it could be the bush between these gears on the mainshaft. They break regularly.

Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4, 74 3 109" pet4, 68 2B FC pet6.