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Thread: Minimum (fittings) for Engine Start

  1. 22nd April 2009, 08:53 PM #1
    TeZZaP Guest

    Minimum (fittings) for Engine Start

    I have an engine sitting in my chassis and want to get it running to check it out - what would you think is the minimum 'stuff' needed to get it running - its currently minus manifold, exhaust and distributer, so obviously they need to go back on, I assume I can stick the pipe form the fuel pump into a can of petrol. But what do I need electrics-wise; coil +alternator? I was planning on starting it on the cranking handle, hopefully meaning I won't need a battery in the circuit?

    Anyone started an engine with minimum 'bits' bolted back-on?
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  2. 22nd April 2009, 09:07 PM #2
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    absolute bare minimum is

    intake manifold
    carby with the fuel bowl full
    A bucket of oil with a hose going to the oil pump pickup.
    A battery (a motor bike battery will do)

    Obviously the crank, cam, timing, valves, rockers, pushrods distributor, plugs, head, gasket, sparkplugs, leads, crank boss and flywheel (all the internals) all have to be there and right as well

    thats good for about a 30 second run but your better off putting the whole thing back together.
    Dave

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  3. 23rd April 2009, 07:21 AM #3
    TeZZaP Guest
    Bugger - I'd forgotten about the carbie! I have an old Solex (plus a kit to refurbish it), or I have an old Strongberg, which again would need to be cleaned up, any ideas which one would be better, or more suited?
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  4. 23rd April 2009, 07:37 AM #4
    Lotz-A-Landies's Avatar
    Lotz-A-Landies
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    Either carby just for the test run.

    If the engine has not been run for a while, you would be advised to take out all the spark plugs, and add a couple or three drops of oil or diesel to each cylinder and turn the engine over with a crank handle. This is to lubricate the rings a little and scrape off any corrosion or build-up in the bore.

    Once it turns over freely, then replace the plugs and do your test.

    Diana

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  5. 23rd April 2009, 05:42 PM #5
    Blknight.aus's Avatar
    Blknight.aus
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    well you can get away with using a spray bottle and spritzin petrol into the intake manifold while its cranking over.

    but thats risky
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  6. 23rd April 2009, 06:59 PM #6
    TeZZaP Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    well you can get away with using a spray bottle and spritzin petrol into the intake manifold while its cranking over.

    but thats risky
    That sounds pretty dam dangerous!
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  7. 23rd April 2009, 07:20 PM #7
    Aaron IIA
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    Get a diesel. Then you can run it with no manifolds at all. That way you can see which cylinder (if any) the smoke is originating from.

    Aaron.
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  8. 23rd April 2009, 07:24 PM #8
    Aaron IIA
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    You will need a battery to run the coil. I would suggest that if the engine has not been run for a while, or if it is not in absolute tuned up specification, that an electric starter motor will be a lot more productive that a crank handle.

    Aaron.
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