Thread: Traxide Headlight Upgrade

Originally Posted by neophyteguy

...
Diana,
I have been told that the late IIa military versions maintained as many features to previous IIa versions so as to reduce the need for the army to carry parts for two models. ...

I believe that is a bit of khaki mythology.

This is a 1971 workshop Land Rover.



Note cut mudguards not present on the SIII Land Rover contracts.

The headlamps in the mudguards came out in the chassis suffix G these were issued to the civilian market commencing in November 1969 and similarly in the military Land Rovers also in 1969. Just check the ARN lists for vehicles commencing ARN 176-533.

So unless I'm mistaken, if your 1971 has cross-eyed headlamps then it is possibly a retrofit.

Thanks Diana!

I have actually been using some of the pictures in the REMLR shed as a reference. In particular, the photos listed at Series 2A 109 GS -REMLR as this as an "immaculate" Landie. It has a chassis number which is 16 less than mine. The vehicle at the link above only has 7600 miles on it, so I wouldnt have thought there would have been a retrofit to it.

Here are the details for the truck listed on the REMLR site:
Make Land-Rover (Rover Australia P/L) Model LWB 109" Series 2A
Manuf. date January 1971 Production CKD RHD export
Army Census 6028B Engine 25350567K
Nomenclature TRUCK, UTILITY, ¾ TON G.S. WITH WINCH
LAND-ROVER SERIES 2A 109 INCH WB Contract number V113697
Chassis 25335056G ARN 178-405

Ronnie

Drivesafe, the hole in the back of the bucket will most likely not even be big enough for the 6 wires, so I am sure the brass plugs will not fit through. I took one of the pins out of the adapter yesterday to have a look at this.

I will just have to cut the adapters, run the wire through (probably needing to expand the size of the hole in the back of the light bucket) and then reattach the plugs.

Can the pins on the plugs be crimped with a normal wire crimper?

Originally Posted by neophyteguy

Can the pins on the plugs be crimped with a normal wire crimper?

I have salvaged pins such as these before but not in this application. It is a bit of a fiddle but it is possible to open up the crimping and then solder the wire back on. My crimping tool wasn't much help, so I used long nosed pliers and a bit of gentle squeezing to make it grip the wire. Annealing the pins will make it easier to crimp them afterwards.

If the pins are brass, you can anneal them with an LPG torch by heating them to a dull red and quenching them in a pickle bath made from 1 part of sulphuric acid to 10 parts water; or 1 part hydroclhoric acid to 10 parts water. Pickling strips off the oxides from heating and allows the solder to stick. Rinse the part in clean water before soldering so that the acid can't wick into the wires and corrode them.

The acids can be bought from a hardware store and the pickle bath made in a glass or plastic jar,

Cheers Charlie