Stiff or Hard Gear Changes

**ezyrama** · 25th July 2009, 08:58 AM

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

if a perfect rev match doesnt make it easier to pick the gear you either have the wrong/no oil in the box OR you have a dying bearing probably the input/output shaft support bearing.

Hi Dave

What's the best oil for these gearboxes (2a), my everyday drive just runs 15w40 engine oil up here in nice 23 degree winter weather

Cheers Ian

**JDNSW** · 25th July 2009, 03:31 PM

Originally Posted by ruskinrowe

I'm guessing your that shaft your talking about has two points to fail, one outside the casing and one inside moving the fork. I don't really want to take the whole thing out, it is a 1971 box, how did the older ones differ?
......

There are two weak points on the cross shaft coupling, at each end of the tube about 2" long, coupled to the shaft that operates the fork and the shaft operated by the slave cylinder by two hardened pins. At first glance the first of these couplings in inside the bell housing, but in fact it is accessible from outside, although thin fingers and long nose pliers do help!

The gearboxes changed (several times) in ratios and the diameter of some shafts, but nothing that would affect the clutch mechanism. The 1971 box is usually considered to be the pick of the Series boxes.

John

**ruskinrowe** · 11th August 2009, 08:52 PM

It may sound like a standard thing for S2's but mine has never been better. I was told some have two pins in the leave that get's pushed, Mine has only one. Basically, You have:

Slave Cyl, Treaded Rod with Adjusting Nut, Leaver with Pin.

The Rod and Nut is what I replaced with a longer one.

I now can select 1st or Reverse without ANY grind or clunk at all. I can finally sit at the lights in neutral and when it changes green clutch in, select first, and take off. No Grind or Clunk.

Thread: Stiff or Hard Gear Changes

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