Thread: diesel conversion

The diesel starter is a much larger one than the petrol starter - I doubt the petrol starter will turn a diesel, and if it does, it won't for long. The diesel has a ignition switch with a position for glow plugs, and you probably need a glow plug warning light.

The diesel engine mounts are different - probably stiffer I think.

The diesel fuel system has a low fuel warning light - switch incorporated into the sender. Note if changing the sender, when the electrics changed from positive to negative earth, the fuel gauge and sender also changed, and are not compatible, so if you fit a new sender, it needs to be compatible.

The diesel has heavier front springs.

I'll probably think of other changes, but these are the ones I can think of at the moment.

John

<<ooops - re-read the post>>

it already sits higher in the front so that dont wory me
i have the ignition out of a desiel sitting at the end of my bed
the fuel gauge wont wory me ill just fit a 10lt reserve tank like my old one in qld (the gauge was u/s in that one)
your right the desiel engine mounts are bigger but ive been tolled by the poms that the petrols one give a smover ride
and thanks ill order one of those hi torce ones from rocky mouintans

dont forget the fuel system and its multiple hoses..

I went through it with fozzy, not hard but I complicated matters on mine by going twin tanks to start with then upgrading to WVO ability.

its a drop in job, just remember you loose you vac assist brakes unless you retain the power sucking vac generation unit that bolts onto the air intake.

max rated RPM is down, you also drop 15 odd HP and a handfull of torques but you get a wider delivery.

overhaul the lift pump BEFORE you put the engine in and I plumbed the lines onto the pump as well and routed them after the engine was in.

Watch the clutch line on the way out and in with the donk.

The others have pretty much covered it. While the diesel shares the same block, that is about it. Crank, flywheel, flywheel housing, cam, head, and lots of other bits are different.

I converted my 109 around 1999 and have never regretted it. A choke cable works fine as an engine stop. I use a start button to work the glow plugs. I use county (V8) engine and gearbox mounts.

There are a few easy mods to extract more power, which I have posted previously.

I hate to be picky but

the dimensions of the block crank and flywheel are the same and can be interchanged if you need to. The diesel stuffs just tougher.

if you wanted to do a super cheap diesel you could do it just by swapping the head and injector pump for the dizzy, it wouldnt last long but it would work.

the reverse however.......

if you want to make a super tough petrol, buy the diesel and put the petrol head ,inlet manifold (so you can mount a carby) and dizzy back in.

going by the book you're not supposed to grind the crank on a diesel 2.25 and you only get one shot at oversizing the pistons.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

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going by the book you're not supposed to grind the crank on a diesel 2.25 and you only get one shot at oversizing the pistons.

I seem to remember that Tank has a diesel with a reground crankshaft - which is broken, apparently due to failure to properly radius the end of the journal.

John

thanks every one the fuel system dont wory me
i dont need power
and i hate spark
the desiel suits me well
plus in my opinion desiel is a lot more reliable