I would disagree with you on a number of your comments.
They are certainly no rocket, however a good 2.25D with improved breathing will keep up with a good 2.25P. My 2.25D has beaten equivalent vehicles with 2.25Ps up hills a few times - both driving flat out.
IDI engines are not as economical as DI engines, that is of course true. However the 2.25D has great economy. On a recent trip from Brisbane-Perth, heavily loaded, I was averaging 11 l/100km. When I had a 2.25P, I was getting 18-20 l/100 for similar driving.
I can get as low as 9l/100, whereas the best I ever got from the petrol was 17.
I removed a recently rebuit 2.25P which went like a train for a 2.25D and never regretted it.
What is the weight difference, or is it negligible.
Bugger all. From memory the manual lists the diesel as ~50 kg heavier. I did not change or reset my springs between 2.25P and 2.25D.
One thing I will add to my previous comments, is not to expect a 2.25D to live any longer than a 2.25P. In fact because they are essentially the same engine, a 2.25D could be expected to need ring/bearing and head rebuilds more frequently. Purely since they have the same rev range, but the Diesel has higher pressures/stresses, plus the addition of soot to increase the rate of engine wear (better filtration , more frequent oil changes and/or oil analysis should help).
After all that, you hardly need any more convincing - but I'd go for the diesel too. I have had one for twelve years and have loved it (alright, I have spent a fair bit of that time out of the country and not actually driving it, but that's not the point). I turfed a Holden six out of the Landy in 2001 and, faced with the cost of reconditioning a motor I opted for the 2.25D over its petrol mate. It lugs beautifully, gets 30mpg and has been perfectly hassle-free. The petrol engine is wonderful and probably more resilient given some of the points already outlined, but sort out a nice diesel and take care of it and it's all happy days...
John
Sorry about hauling the old thread up from the depths
Just wondering if you guys who did the 2.25p to 2.25d swap got an engineers cert to go with it, or did you just stick it in an wing it?
Luca
I don't think any state requires such a certificate where you are changing the engine to one that was sold in the same vehicle, although where there were other changes in the one that was sold (e.g. the Six has larger brakes) you need to make these other changes as well. And note that the maximum load and towing weights change slightly.
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
Ah... interesting, so for a 2.6 to a 2.25 you also wouldn’t need a certificate? Despite modifications needed to engine mounts + different bell housing?
Cheers
not so. if the chassis didnt come with the engine then you cant just drop it in without engineering for at least the welds, the 2.6 also had different brakes to the 2.25 (in some cases) However... Its a lot easier to do and have an engineer sign off on it because its already been done and approved so its not a huge amount of hoop jumping.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
I had a diesel swb back in the 70's and my wife managed to do the impossible. She thought she would see what it would do and egged on by her sister flattened it down a long (very long) hill and got booked for SPEEDING.
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