I have been looking for a good SWB for a while. I like the series 2/2a but am a little inexperienced with non-synchro gearboxes.
I enjoy Fraser Island (in my Disco Tdi auto!) and other off road destinations and understand the theory of double de-clutching etc but I can see how difficult trying to do this quickly in a off road situation would/could be.
Is the answer just the correct gear selection in the first place and keep on going...?
Is it just practise and it becomes really easy?
Do you just crash the gears at the odd time where a gear change is required fast?
Do I just accept that a series three is better?? (or weaker??)
How easy is a non-synchro box off road compared to a series three?
Any input appreciated.
Sean
I can't really say, as I learnt to drive in vehicles with no synchromesh, but both my sons, having learnt in cars with synchromesh adapted fairly rapidly and easily to the 2a. Second is really very easy - changing up, all it needs is a brief pause in neutral, changing down double declutching is necessary, but does not have to be particularly accurate, and a bit of a clash won't hurt anyway.
First is more difficult as it is not constant mesh, but you can usually avoid changing down to it on the move. If you are likely to need to do so, you probably should be in low range anyway (in which case you are using 2/3/4). If you are in low range and need to change into first, you will be going so slowly that you are almost certain to stop anyway, so you might as well stop to avoid the problem.
John
John
JDNSW
1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol
once you're ofay with the way the gear box works a good operator can shift a non syncro box quicker than a normal driver can shift a full syncro box.
I have no problems operating on or off road without syncro its just a learning curve, If you really, really want to learn a crunch box grab an old series, hook up a tons worth of trailer then go driving in melbourne for a couple of days.
In answer to you're questions.
yep picking the right gear before you go is always best regardless of the type of transmission.
yep it gets easier
yep everyone crunches gears.
its not really harder its just different..
the non syncro box is stronger the series III is a little easier if you've never driven crash box or you're not confident about it.
Dave
"In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."
For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.
Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
TdiautoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)
If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.
When I learnt to double de-clutch in the Army, I was shown that the faster the action on the clutch pedal the better it worked.
Two quick bangs on the floor and the next gear will engage easily
Once you have mastered this skill (we had to in in 2 or 3 days or be off the course) try changing gears on the move without a clutch at all. The technique is the gentlest of finger pressure on the gearstick, whilst throttling off, the gear will disengage when it wants to and gentle pressure will push it into the next speed. Down-shifting is the same, with a bit of throttle in neutral to synchronise the dog clutch speeds. If this is done well there is no crunching and the passenger won't even notice that you are not using a clutch
Cheers Charlie
think about what you are asking the gear box to do.
as you are disengaging and engaging 1 gear thats connected to the drive shaft and another thats connected to the motor ver the clutch.
changing up you are asking the gear connected to the motor to spin slower to match the speed of the gear connected to the drive shaft a paus will help with this as the motor will lose its revs rater quickly.
shifting down is a bit different because you are asking for the motor driven gear to speed up. i tend to leave a bit of throttle on to try and match the motor revs for the new lower gear i am selecting. a bit of practice and if you get the reves correct it will just slip in quite quickly, no dubbing of the clutch.
i still double on upshifts, habit and it makes a mandatory pause, helps with the timing.
That brings back memories. About 1970 I was delivering a load of beans to Spitalfields Market in London, and the clutch master cylinder failed on the way out of the markets. I drove back down to Kent, through London, across Tower Bridge, down the Old Kent Road, with no clutch. Just as well it was the middle of the night.
Peter
I have been driving my IIA offroad for 14 years. The lack of synchromesh has never caused an issue. The 2 - 1 change is the only tricky one, but you rarely need to do that offroad.
I once drove from northern NSW to Brisbane with no clutch - now that was a bit difficult...
What causes more difficulty is not being able to change easily from L-H at speed.
I taught at the Army school of transport for two years, when the International F1 ( MK5) was in service and this vehicle has a fully crash box which was often a problem to some students, I found the best way to teach them was to give them an understanding of what the difference was between between the two types of boxes is and and why one has to double clutch.
I know this will draw some flack from Dave and some other mechanical minded persons as its not technically correct and to try and explain a syncro cone etc to some one that does not have a mechanical aptitude is a bit hard. But I found this works.
Think of a gears in a box ( circles with square cut teeth evenly spaced around it, the ends are square cut, the tops are square cut ) these are crash gears or non syncro gears.
Syncro gears are rounded on the ends and tops and with and the help of oil they slide into one another with ease.
A gear box can be divided into two half's, Top and bottom, Power comes into the box from the engine via the input shaft ( top one) and turns the top half of the box.
The power is the transmitted to the road wheels via the bottom half of the gear box when a set of gears are engaged.
With a crash box these two gears have to be revolving at the same resolutions to engage.
Don't forget when changing up gears it just a double clutch action , but changing down gears, when the clutch is engaged and the box is in natural you have to rev the engine slightly to bring the two gears up to the same revolutions.
When learning its not a good idea to rush the changes but make it a fast flowing action. and remenber your road speed in relation to the gear about to be engaged.
Best of luck, just keep praticing , as other he said, when you master it you will enjoy the driving this type of box.
Hodgo
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