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Thread: Can't start my Series2

  1. #1
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    Can't start my Series2

    Hi Guys,
    I bought this '66 series2a a couple of months back which was rebuilt a few years back , but has been sitting around and the guy who had it just used to tinker and screw around with it.
    I managed to get it started a few days ago and sounded good but after I stopped it...then tried to restart it..it was all over and have not been able to start it up since...
    What I have discovered -
    1. The spark I am getting from the coil looks weak and very yellowish...doesn't look right to me and all the ingnition system has been changed..new Dizzy, coil, lead, plugs...you name it. Have double checked the timing and all good.
    2. I checked the plugs and only found No.2 wet with fuel.. all others dry.
    I pulled all the plugs out and cranked her over and I could see Fuel mist coming out of No.2 but none of the rest...I don't think this is good...
    I think something has gone...maybe valves??..I noticed i can actually open the valves by pushing on the springs...seem very weak..
    Help!..Any ideas or thoughts would be appreciated.

    Con

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    Sounds as if a compression check would be the next thing to look at. Also, the mixture could be out - due to the carburetter flooding (what type?) or if a Zenith warped top plate, or weak mixture due to air leak in the inlet manifold gasket (loose manifold?) or vacuum line (PCV valve?). Weak mixture is more likely, as unless really bad it will start from cold if it is rich.

    Check what voltage you are actually getting at the coil with the points closed (check chassis/engine earth and could be bad connection on the ignition switch). Check it is the correct coil (not intended for use with a ballast resistor).

    Weak valve springs should not stop the engine starting, but may have resulted in burning of the valve seats and consequent low compression, which will stop it starting.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
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  3. #3
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    The spark at the plug when earthed onto the engine should be strong and electric-blue; you are on the right track here so check:
    1. Low-tension circuit for: loose or poor connections; faulty earth in the distributor base plate, etc.
    2. Is the coil the proper type? It needs the type with no ballast resistor I think.
    3. If everything in the high-tension circuit is new, check that it does actually work or has not been damaged.
    4. If you suspect poor compression do a compression test; dry followed by a wet test and record the results.
    5. if you suspect a burnt or sticking valve you can prove it by forcing compressed air into the cylinder when the piston is on T.D.C. on the compression stroke and feeling for air at the exhaust pipe or carburettor. (from what you describe I doubt it is this because it would probably fire on the other cylinders).
    6. Check the valve clearances - sometimes previous owners do funny things to them and set the clearances all over the place - do this before the compression test.
    7. If No.2 is getting fuel then others will be, so don't be alarmed by lack of wetness. If you look down the carburettor throat and turn the throttle linkage by hand you should see fuel squirt out, depending on what carburettor is fitted - use a torch.

    Cheers Charlie

  4. #4
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    Can't start my series 2

    Thanks guys for the comments...In the ignition, I do suspect the low tension circuit is a bit dodgy...connections etc. When I check the points with the ignition on...there is a tiny sparc but looks very weak..

    I'll do a compression check to see what is going on here....I'm thinking of taking the head off and doing the valves....but I think I should make sure my ignition is producing a good strong blue spark before I do this...agree?

  5. #5
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    Yes, I would start with the ignition first seeing that you have had it running recently and given your description of the spark.

    I forgot to mention checking the static ignition timing with a test light and check that the points haven't grown a whisker on them,

    Cheers Charlie

  6. #6
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    if you have a tiny spark on the points then your condenser is shot.

    That can cause a weak and occasionally no spark.
    Dave

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  7. #7
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if you have a tiny spark on the points then your condenser is shot.

    That can cause a weak and occasionally no spark.
    agree

    Mine hadn't been started for 10 years and there was no spark. New coil, points, plugs, leads, dizzy cap (long story) and I had a weak spark. Tossed in a new condenser and it started right up!

    I have had an engine fail with a faulty condenser before (old 1950's Vauxhall Velox) so it is one of the things I usually have a couple of in the toolbox.

    Edit: and be careful to fully isolate the coil and condenser connection when you connect them to the points. If it isn't on properly it just won't work. As you had it running before and then it died, I would still suspect the condenser.

  8. #8
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    Unhappy Can't start my Series2

    Thanks again folks for the feedback. Will be fitting a new condensor and see how it all goes. I did a compression check and only getting around 50lbs on that...I suspect I'm going to have to do the Head as well soon.

    rgds

    Con

  9. #9
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    Can't Start my Series2

    Just to go on about my woes and how I am having issues starting my Series2...I have changed, as per peoples suggestions, the Condensor and yes, I am getting a much stronger spark now from the coil....jumps nearly a centimeter , but it's still a yellow colour and still no go.I checked the spark at the plugs and ...no sparc...what the?.....and there is a spark at the end of the spark plug leads....but again, not a strong blue colour.I can't believe all plugs have failed?....Any suggestions here?....
    Thnks

  10. #10
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    Any spark at the coil lead going IN to the dizzy cap ??

    Paul

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