Another 2a build thread

[drifter]

Well - I went and purchased another Series 2a. The wife has named it but I think the swear filter would remove most of the name

The plan is to get one working from 2. I also have a SWB 2a that has a very rotten chassis and firewall. Mechanically, it will become the donor.

Here is the beginning of my rebuild thread and here are the pics of the latest Landy:

Waiting to be picked up.


Apprehension (hiding)


Teasing the Toyota by showing it can go anywhere the Toyota can go - backwards


EGADS! 'Something is missing!


Home:

[drifter]

more

The First Class Lounge:


I bet it is the same 'person' who stole the engine that nicked the floor boards


The middle passenger will NOT be comfortable:


It looks like 'he' pinched the gear lever, too!


We has a sore foot:

[drifter]

last pictures for now

Some non-Lucas wiring:


It took me a while to work out that the centre object was the choke warning mechanism. I suspect that starter wiring was for a reason, too!


I am told this was to convert +ve earth to -ve earth. Note - there are no wires connected to the regulator.


Just your average to basic dashboard.


The cockpit from the First Class Lounge

[isuzutoo-eh]

Looks to be a good base for the rebuild
Good luck with it and please keep us up to date

[JDNSW]

The disconnection of the regulator suggests that an alternator was fitted, presumably on the Holden engine indicated by the hacked front cossmember. Holden engine with a solenoid on the starter will be the reason for the starter wiring.

However, it looks as if the basics are fairly sound, which is a good start.

John

[drifter]

Thanks Mark and John.

The 2.25P I'm putting in it also has an alternator. That vehicle was already a -ve earth one - so I have removed all the 'classy' wiring from this one today. It was going to need a rewire - a lot of the wiring that was there was pretty bad - so it has gone.

Small things, I know - but the vent controls from the donor migrated over today, too. They worked whereas the ones in this one sorta did - and didn't! Happily, they do now!

I bought four 750x16's a couple of days ago - still plenty of tread on them so, this weekend, we will make a start on putting them on.

Because of the donor engine having an alternator, I have decided that the ammeter in the current dash was superfluous (it was a 30-0-30) - so I am bringing the other dash over, too. I have removed both from the vehicles and will start cleaning up the one I will finally use.

I received 2 front grill assemblies with this one. One is painted the same as the vehicle but has been cut for the Holden radiator. The other is in pretty good condition but will need a sand and paint job. I have stripped the lights (sealed beams) and bonnet latch from it and will start sanding pretty soon.

The biggest job, in the near future, will be to remove the engine from the donor and strip it down and check it over. I particularly want to replace things like frost plugs and rear seals because, once it goes back in, I don't want to be removing it for a while.

Anyways - enough rambling for now... back to sanding...

[JDNSW]

Thanks Mark and John.
..........
Because of the donor engine having an alternator, I have decided that the ammeter in the current dash was superfluous (it was a 30-0-30) - so I am bringing the other dash over, too. I have removed both from the vehicles and will start cleaning up the one I will finally use.
...........

Watch it! Although removing the ammeter from the circuit is a good idea if you are using an alternator, you should note that when the electrical system was changed to incorporate a temperature gauge, there was also a change to the fuel gauge. The newer temperature and fuel gauges are powered from a voltage stabiliser, screwed to the bulkhead on the 2a, back of the speedo on the S3, and the fuel tank senders are different for the two fuel gauges. If you use the later dash panel, with its newer fuel gauge, you will have to also use the voltage stabiliser, and the fuel tank sender from the donor. An alternative would be to simply replace the actual ammeter with the temperature gauge and keep the old fuel gauge. Also, note the different arrangement of warning lights in the two panels.

John

[drifter]

You're a champ! Thanks.

I had read about the regulator and had rescued it from the other 2a - but I didn't know about the fuel sender.

I'll go grab that, too.

There was a strange device attached to the flasher unit, too. I'll take some pictures and see if anyone recognises it.

John

[drifter]

Here are 3 different views of the device that is attached to the flasher. I haven't seen one before. Any idea of what it is? (click on the pic for a bigger view)

[drifter]

The only markings on it say:

12V
RBV
Registered Trademark Australia

and it was connected to the flasher X terminal