Thread: Help please: in over my head!

Sorry, I should also point out, that I have a Holden 202 red engine in my Series 3 SWB.

ok

remove all leads from dizzy cap
remove dizzi cap
remove 1st spark plug
remove dizzy and refit so there is clearance ie: has room to rotate and wiring reaches easily
stick your thumb over spark plug hole
rotate engine until air stops comming out (#1 piston tdc)
loosen dizzy bolt
mark rotor posistion on outside of dizzi with a texta
refit cap
the plug posistion closest to (next one clockwise)the mark goes to #1 spark plug, refit this as well
refit the remaining leads as per firing order
get out the timing light, remove vacuum advance line - fire up and set timing to the balancer mark
if it does not fire up at first, rotate a little bit then try again - just do this untill it will run and idle - then set timing

Jobs done

If you are still running with your old coil and it previously did not require a ballast resistor then you have done no harm by removing the ballast.

If your engine is running it sounds like your within a bulls roar of the required timing, loosen the dizzy clamp at the base of the dizzy and when the engine is running turn the dizzy in either direction (clockwise or anticlockwise). One of the two directions will improve things.

But if you are concerned about starting your engine in the current configuration then follow the directions given above (Hardchina) which takes you back to basics and should releave concerns about doing damage.

Originally Posted by tangiers

Sorry, I should also point out, that I have a Holden 202 red engine in my Series 3 SWB.

Cool trick: before removing the old dissy turn the engine to no. 1 TDC and install the new dissy to the same lead position. You didn't? Well, I am sure you will get it right soon. Use the timing mark on the front pulley to confirm TDC.
The coil you should be using is of course a compatible MEI/ HEI type coil. Any parts shop or wrecker should have coils to suit Australian delivered Holden/Ford/Nissan/Mitsi/Toyota vehicles fitted with this type of dissy.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Use the timing mark on the front pulley to confirm TDC.

This can also indicate TDC on the exhaust stroke, so the compression stroke can be confirmed by removing No. 1 plug and putting your thumb over the plug hole firmly, while someone else hand cranks the engine slowly - feel for the little poof of escaping gas

When you are sure that a considerable volume of air is trying to force its way out, use a thin screwdriver to feel the piston-crown rise, until it stops (TDC). Confirm that the timing mark is in the right position, on some engines the mark can be in the wrong place if the harmonic balancer has worn. If it is not possible to feel exactly when the piston stops, the inlet and exhaust valves can be checked with the rocker cover removed (that they are both closed) and then checked against the timing mark.

There is much more than this to get the engine running properly; however; so get someone who knows to show you how, Tangiers,

Cheers Charlie

In other words keep turning the engine by hand until you have the following:

timing mark lined up with the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer;
number one cylinder has piston at top of travel
valves on cylinder one closed (not rocking)

if at this stage you have a spark on # one lead then your timing is good enough to proceed to fine tuning with a timing light.

If you don't have a timing light you will need to do it by ear. Go for a drive accelerate if it pings it is too advanced and retard the timing by turning the dizzy.

If none of this makes sense do as Charlie said and get someone to show you, most people who have played with cars should be able to show you how to get the timing sorted.

Originally Posted by tangiers

I recently bought on eBay an electronic distributor which was advertised as a simple, all-you-need in a box with a manual, way to replace the old distributor with points....Of course, it comes with no manual and a piece of paper in poor English telling me to remove the "ballister" (ballast?) and to upgrade my coil to a Bosch. I have (recklessly) tried to install it. I kept the same order with the HT leads as on the existing cap and started it. It would fire up and then soon die. So I by-passed what I think it the ballast (a white ceramic looking rectangular box which is affixed high on the firewall in the engine bay (roughly centre, just under the bonnet line?) and it kept going but sounded very rough so I switched it off. I am sure I have done a number of things wrong but before I go further (and spend money upgrading my Echin? coil to a Boasch for $80), I was hoping if someone could give me some advice on what I have done so far. I have a very basic (read "none") understanding of how a distributor works and what concerns me is: surely I need to align the new distributor in such a way that it fires in synchronised way with the position of the cylinders)? It is driven by a gear and I assume that I wouldn't be so lucky as to have put it in exactly the correct position so that it fires at the right time?

Basically everything that everyone else has said. Looks like you have'nt lined up the distributor gear correctly.

The "white ceramic looking rectangular box" is a ballast resistor. You don't need it with your electronic distributor, only with the old points distributor (it changes the voltage from 12V to 7V).

It will run fine on your old coil once you have the timing right, but a new correct coil will give you a stronger spark.

Don't give up, you'll get there, then next time you'll have to sink further to be in over your head again.

Thank you all for your helpful advice. Whilst I understand the rationale of how to fix it, I've come to the conclusion that I am way beyond my skills level.

I've called in the NRMA (pleasant surprise to find out that I have to pay for the tow notwithstanding my membership promises free tows - apparently because I fitted a part to the car- nothing about that proviso on the web page though, funny that.....) and sending it to the local garage.

I learned a lot from the exercise but as usual, the lessons are expensive!

Thanks once again to all the contributors for their kind assistance.