Thanks Adam i need all the luck i can get at the moment gets up this morning to find Karens car dead . . So picking up the spring should be interesting . . Wonder if they would let us on a bus with them . . .
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Thanks Adam i need all the luck i can get at the moment gets up this morning to find Karens car dead . . So picking up the spring should be interesting . . Wonder if they would let us on a bus with them . . .
Well i didn't get the springs & i didn't get the passengers side turn stop done either . But i did get the crapoyta going real good new plugs, leads & reset the points.. After i broke the rotor button & had to wait for repco to deliver one as my car don't steer . . .
Anyway i would like some advise . I have desided to not get the springs just yet as i like the old ones cause they are soft & comfy... But its still going to hit. Well because i have the power steering & the track rod ? is lower on the drivers side which puts it down on the passengers side the angle is lower..
So i want to bend the rod .Does anyone have any ideas as to where it should be bent , On the passengers side end i was thinking that way its closer the original angle & it should miss & not hit anymore . .Or should i bend it closer the steering damper. Or just back a bit from the balljoint on the passenger side say 4 or 5 inches . I only have about 10 to 15mm to play with above the damper because i have the PTO winch knuckle just above it . Although i would take that off & swap it for an electric one ..
Do use think this would be ok to do although we have thought about just getting a new one made & then bend it as if i bend this one it will be shorter..
I was a little concerned about the balljoint on the passenger side but it would be ok as the original angle is sharpish..
So what do use think would like all your input & thoughts . . . . .
Plus if i do do this when i do change the springs there shouldn't be any trouble of it hitting . . . .
THANKS Jason . . . . .
I would be reluctant to bend the drag link - once bent, it will be a lot weaker than when straight, although having said that, there are plenty of Landrovers have driven long distances, often for years, with bent drag links - after all, it is the first bit to hit the stump hidden in the grass that just fits below the bumper!
As an alternative, have you considered simply removing the fold over bits of the spring clamp? The spring will work perfectly well without them - the main function is to keep the leaves straight, and this is shared with the other one on the back side of the spring. A secondary function is to limit rebound, but the main operator for that function is the shock absorber.
John
I would re-set the old springs rather than mess with the drag-link.
Incidentally; I think it is a good idea of yours not to buy new springs, most reports seem to indicate that the best for suppleness are the Rover ones,
Cheers Charlie
OOPS i should of said my drag link is solid made from 4140 & drilled & taped at the ends .But if i did bend it i would of made another one ..
Yes i can cut the tops off that clamp i think doing that will give me about a 5mm clearance, i'm just worried about going 4WDiving when the passengers side goes up it mite hit & thats what i'm worried about as wouldn't that break the balljoint if it hits. But then again i think that would only happen is if i have right hand down & it comes up..
How much clearance is there on a standard one on right hand down between the spring & rod ???
Sorry guys i was wrong the passenger side wheel would have to drop down for it to hit the spring not up.So around town here it should be fine..Its just the 4Wdriving to worry about..:eek: .
I would not get it bent but see if someone can do a double roll on the tude that way it woulf keep its strength, you will need another piece of pipe about 10" longer to allow for the rolling and then trim.
The tie rod can handle the angle but may not last as long if it was sat in the original position, you could always look into rose joints but they are pricey
Adam
I have know idea what you meen, Does that meen it would be arched ?? An arch type set up mite work . .Quote:
Originally Posted by agrojnr
What is a rose joint ? where can i go to look at some on the net ? what do they do ? Ah Are they those joints that sit over a ball thing ??
I seem to remember a discussion on rose joints several years ago. One of the things that was pointed out is that they are illegal for on-road use (much discussion as to why).
Another solution occurs to me - get a reamer the same taper as the hole in the steering arm and ream it out - would not take much get raise it about an eighth of an inch. Might be cheaper to get an engineering shop to do it than to buy the reamer.
John
His tierod end goes in from the top so that would increase the problem, I think - unless you are talking about doing it at the drop-arm on the relay...Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
Quote:
Originally Posted by banjo