Thread: STEERING TROUBLES

That track rod is alot bigger than the origanal as the toyota end is biger thicker. was wondering if i put new springs on (would like to go with parrabolics) ..
And maybe get the passangers side machined in a lath & get it to or close to the origanal size & then tapper it to the larger size about 3 or 4 inches from the end..

I think if the gap isn't big enough between the spring & joint when the tyre goes up when in the bush under articulation that they will hit & snap the joint ??

I just went and looked at mine - there is not a lot of clearance there anyway, I am guessing that the stem of the ball on the tie rod end is slightly shorter, at least from the outside of the tube, and has been brought into contact by settling of the spring.

However, I would check that the U-bolts are tight and that you do not have a broken centrebolt allowing the axle to move slightly. Other things to check would be a loose swivel bush allowing the whole swivel housing to twist slightly, or a loose or bent arm, or a worn tierod end allowing the tube to be pushed slightly lower by the spring in the TRE.

John

Well i went & mesured the 2 rods the one that goes between the two sides is 22.4 round . The one that goes from the box to the Wheel is 25.6 round plus the clamp...
I also mesured from the spring to the rods the Gap..


The one that joins the two wheels is 20mm....



The one that goes from the box to the wheel is 15mm ..




Its is only hitting that bracket on the springs & the clamp on the rod hits the bracket . . . .
Only on full right lock , The rap bracket on the spring is 5 or so mm thick...

Also ment to say that the steering box end is a little lower as it has the power steering from a 60 series toyota which is fitted to the outside of the chassis so needs to be a little lower for the arm to have full movement through right & left...

I can see the problem, if you look close it is evident in all you pics - its to bloody clean, no oil, no mud and just shiney paint. Take it out the bush, bit of oil splashed on with a good dash of mud you wont hear the noises.
cheers
blaze
ps
maybe reset the springs

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I just went and looked at mine - there is not a lot of clearance there anyway, I am guessing that the stem of the ball on the tie rod end is slightly shorter, at least from the outside of the tube, and has been brought into contact by settling of the spring.

However, I would check that the U-bolts are tight and that you do not have a broken centrebolt allowing the axle to move slightly. Other things to check would be a loose swivel bush allowing the whole swivel housing to twist slightly, or a loose or bent arm, or a worn tierod end allowing the tube to be pushed slightly lower by the spring in the TRE.

John

Thaks John
I know the U bolts are good as i had to fix both center bolts as they where broken..

I'm pretty sure the swivel bush is okbut will check again tomorrow..

The tie rod is a brand new one i replaced the 2 when made the rod toyota 1end landy the other end...

Praying that it is only the worn springs as they are the origanal 1973 ones..

And it only hits that damn bracket on the spring at full lock or just before it actualy..

Allways new i would have to replace the springs was just hoping it would be further down the track as i want to sort the disc brakes.....

You could extend the front hangers the same as the Military then fit Military shackles.

Last time I checked, Carrolls Springs in Smithfield would reset a pair of springs for $220. Give them a call on 02 9681 1355.

Peter