STEERING TROUBLES

**banjo** · 27th June 2010, 06:00 PM

Originally Posted by JDNSW

I just went and looked at mine - there is not a lot of clearance there anyway, I am guessing that the stem of the ball on the tie rod end is slightly shorter, at least from the outside of the tube, and has been brought into contact by settling of the spring.

However, I would check that the U-bolts are tight and that you do not have a broken centrebolt allowing the axle to move slightly. Other things to check would be a loose swivel bush allowing the whole swivel housing to twist slightly, or a loose or bent arm, or a worn tierod end allowing the tube to be pushed slightly lower by the spring in the TRE.

John

To check this can i just jack up the front end & grab the wheel & see if there is any movement..?

**banjo** · 29th June 2010, 07:40 PM

Well i got a price on my new springs today can get the 4 of them for $500 & they are a little bigger than standed hight not sure how much will find out tomorrow . . . . Thought that was a good price . . . . .

**TJWA** · 29th June 2010, 07:46 PM

A set of Britpart Parabolics for a 109" cost me $800

**peterg1001** · 29th June 2010, 08:40 PM

My Britpart parabolics also cost $800 - then the rest. See the story at Sorting out the rear suspension.

Peter

**banjo** · 29th June 2010, 08:58 PM

Yeah i would like to go with parabolics just cant aford them just yet so it will have to be standed ones for now . Was hoping mine would of lasted a bit longer so i could of got the parabolics . .

**banjo** · 29th June 2010, 09:02 PM

Originally Posted by peterg1001

My Britpart parabolics also cost $800 - then the rest. See the story at Sorting out the rear suspension.

Peter

BUGGA ME .....Mite waita bit for mine. . . .

**TJWA** · 29th June 2010, 09:11 PM

Originally Posted by banjo

BUGGA ME .....Mite waita bit for mine. . . .

If you do go with Parabolics, spend the extra and get the Rocky Mountains. That's what I would do if I could go back in time.

The sweetness of a cheap price does not last as long as the sourness of poor quality.

**banjo** · 1st July 2010, 07:01 PM

I hope this works. How bad or dangerous would it be to cut the tops off this bracket on the springs just the top where its hitting on the steering . It would only be for a week or 2 at most till i get my new springs so i can still drive it ?????????. This is the only place it hits . . .

**Lotz-A-Landies** · 1st July 2010, 07:12 PM

You would be better off getting the correct clamp, because that one ain't it!

Then I'd be adjusting the drag link rod into the tie rod end so that not so much of the thread is sticking out.

After that I would be re-positioning the steering lever on the bottom of the steering relay so that the steering was correct lock to lock and straight ahead.

Subsequently I would adjust the steering stops correctly.

Then you shouldn't have a problem hitting the springs.

No I would not cut off any steering bracket for even an hour!

**banjo** · 1st July 2010, 07:32 PM

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

You would be better off getting the correct clamp, because that one ain't it!

Then I'd be adjusting the drag link rod into the tie rod end so that not so much of the thread is sticking out.

After that I would be re-positioning the steering lever on the bottom of the steering relay so that the steering was correct lock to lock and straight ahead.

Subsequently I would adjust the steering stops correctly.

Then you shouldn't have a problem hitting the springs.

No I would not cut off any steering bracket for even an hour!

Which one do you mean .. I want to cut the top off the clamp on the spring not the tie rod. . . .
These springs are the origanals & have saged enough to make it hit..

I have to check the top & bottom swivel bush's to. Can i just jack up the front & grab a wheel & see . Push & pull the top & bottom of the wheel to see if theres movement.??????

Thread: STEERING TROUBLES

Thread Tools

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions