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Thread: STEERING TROUBLES

  1. #121
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    <snip>
    As an alternative, have you considered simply removing the fold over bits of the spring clamp? The spring will work perfectly well without them - the main function is to keep the leaves straight, and this is shared with the other one on the back side of the spring. A secondary function is to limit rebound, but the main operator for that function is the shock absorber.

    John
    I had suggested that to him in a phone conversation - or grinding about 3mm off the fold-overs (they are about 5mm thick).

    The worrying thing is why has it now occurred after about a year of use? Spring sag? Hitting a pothole? Is there an inherent problem now that may get worse with more time?

    The 'new' springs are stiffer and flatter than the current ones - so it's probably not a good idea to spend $500 to see it get worse.

  2. #122
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    If it was me, for now, I would just put a spacer between the top of the spring and the axle mount. You'd only need a 5mm plate to lift the axle and hence steering arm 5mm above the spring. If you're worried about that side ending up 5mm lower than the other then put an identical one on the drivers side too. Problem solved.

    It sounds like Banjo needs a car he can drive on the road now and that would be the source of a lot of stress if it was me.

  3. #123
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    Angry PLEASE READ THROUGH....

    Ok this ****ing peice of **** ****ed up car is doing my ****ing head in, it mite be cheaper the insure the bucket of **** then burn the ****ing thing....

    When i was building it the rolling chassis sat with just the engine in it for months while i was doing the body work & all the **** jobs no one likes to do...
    Now when everything was put back on there was nothing in the car no seats or the like for another few months now it has seats in the front & back 2 batteries in the back center cubby box over head consol with sterio , cb , uhf. High lift on the back & a dirty big heavy PTO winch & bullbar off the front...With driving lights....
    Now when we got it the last owner just drove it never maintained it & the bushes where gone & had been gone for some time as you could see where the front springs had been riding on the chassis so i replaced them & all was good till now..

    Now with all this going on i have tried every thing every one has said to no avail...
    Well i have been out under it for the last half hour looking as i was going to cut the bracketBRACKET...
    Well when having a good look at how would be the easiest way with the grinder under there i noticed SOMETHING on both front springs which i haven't noticed before as i was looking at everything else..
    Well i was under the front & noticed i could see THROUGH all the leaves on the passenger side at the front from the diff forward so i check the drivers side & guess what i see THROUGH them aswell but not as bad.. So if i cut that bracket i recon the spring will go twang & open up as the bracket seems to be holding it together some what. The drivers side isn't as bad but i can still see THROUGH..
    Now i'm wondering if the fat lazy bastard i got the car from who had a bigger bullbar on the front & the PTO winch has been driving it with no bushes is it posable to kink the springs forward as it bashes around speicaly when you put the brakes on could it twist the spring like on old race cars when you put your foot down the rear springs kinda curve.????????
    Now when we first started to drive it i know i had more of a gap between the spring & rod not much but enough & probably only just enough on full right lock as i didn't have a turn stop on that side for a whole year no trouble..
    Also on the passenger side spring at both ends the second spring is very warn 3 to 4 mm thick i recon with a few hits from a hammer it would break the wrap off..
    So now i cant cut the bracket.
    I also jacked the car up fron the xmember under the front of the gearbox & the springs didn't change i could still see THROUGH & the gap between spring & rod did close but more so when the front wheels where off the ground...
    SO WHAT ARE MY SPRINGS LIKE ANY GOOD ....?????????

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  4. #124
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    Plus when Karen went & first looked at the car it was loaded to the hilt in the back with heavy stuff plus there where a heap of parts in it when i got it in the back heavy..Plus it had a full length roof rack basket full of crap & some of that was heavy aswell..

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  5. #125
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    Banjo
    You shouldnt be able to see daylight through a leaf spring that has weight on it on the other hand if it has no weight on it is quite acceptable.
    I just looked at mine and note that the front springs have 11 leaves with 8 cm travel from the bump stop to the diff housing (yours looks like it has 6 cm indicating that the springs might be a bit tired. That being said mine is a Series 3 Stage 1 Chassis but I dont think they are that different in this area.
    My steering rod has touched the spring in the past nothing of great concern just noticeable when the left spring is compressed.
    Was the height of the steering arm the other end changed when you put power steering in this vehicle?
    If you springs are stuffed they should be replaced if you cant afford it you can reset them your self I have done it before using an anvil and a hammering technique that I was shown years ago. I dont think this is really the best practice but will keep you moving be wary of doing this if the springs are really thin and rusted.

  6. #126
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    You should not see daylight through between the leaves when under load. This indicates that the spring leaves are probably being spread due to rust between the leaves close to the U-bolts. This distorts the shape of the spring, and may be the root source of the problem. If it is not too bad, it is probably possible to rectify it by removing and disassembling the spring and wire brushing off the rust. The spring leaves should then be painted, lubricated and reassembled.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by djam1 View Post
    Banjo
    You shouldnt be able to see daylight through a leaf spring that has weight on it on the other hand if it has no weight on it is quite acceptable.
    I just looked at mine and note that the front springs have 11 leaves with 8 cm travel from the bump stop to the diff housing (yours looks like it has 6 cm indicating that the springs might be a bit tired. That being said mine is a Series 3 Stage 1 Chassis but I dont think they are that different in this area.
    My steering rod has touched the spring in the past nothing of great concern just noticeable when the left spring is compressed.
    Was the height of the steering arm the other end changed when you put power steering in this vehicle?
    If you springs are stuffed they should be replaced if you cant afford it you can reset them your self I have done it before using an anvil and a hammering technique that I was shown years ago. I dont think this is really the best practice but will keep you moving be wary of doing this if the springs are really thin and rusted.
    Not realy but it is on the outside of the chassis now.....I'll measure between the bumpstop & diff in the morning...

    I also had the spring apart when the center bolt needed fixing & looked ok...

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  8. #128
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    Well Fatty has just left to go & pick up the new springs don't know when i will get a chance to fit them as it looks like rain this arvo & it surposed to rain all week , Plus we have the pamphlets today to do & the papers tomorrow...

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  9. #129
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    AH look aren't they pretty ..






    After taking some measurements the clamp that mine is hitting now shouldn't be to much of a problem with the new ones as its closer to the diff which will put it just between the 2 rods or posably just under the rod between the 2 wheels...

    Since when did springs come with out the spring bush fitted ????

    1969 LWB S2a yellow, gone
    1972 LWB S2a 5 DOOR wagon coming & GONE
    1973 LWB S3 green Sadly GONE
    1977 LWB S3 tabletop building
    1992 disco BOINGY BOINGY

    My landrover doesn't leak oil , IT SWEATS POWER

    JASON & KAREN

  10. #130
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    They look good. On mine though the second clamp from the front was hitting the steering rod so I had to take the bolt out, heat them up and bend them over to create a wrap. I also took mine apart, took out some leaves and diamond cut and chamfered the ends to make them work a bit better.

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

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