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Thread: No Power to Rear Wheels

  1. #1
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    Unhappy No Power to Rear Wheels

    Hi, Thanks for all your advice so far guys. I stupidly haven't made time to give the vehicle a good going over before I took it for a short test run this afternoon. My friend heard something breaking and then when I tried to drive up hill again there was no power. Eventually we narrowed the problem down to the rear wheels not receiving power so on flat ground with four wheel drive engaged the vehicle will drive but any slope means all the power is transferred to the rear axel but not to the rear wheels. What is the most likely part to have broken and how difficult would my problem likely be to fix.

    Again thanks a lot guys.

    Some more details:

    The vehicle won't drive in two wheel drive. In four wheel drive and low range it will drive but only on flat surfaces. This would sesm to me to be a broken rear axel or is that being too pessimistic? It all looks right underneath when first gear is engaged (when in 2wd) i.e propshafts spinning together at the same speed but I can leave the vehicle sitting in first (2wd) without it moving or stalling.
    Last edited by reubsrover; 22nd August 2010 at 12:24 AM. Reason: More Details

  2. #2
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    Dunno if this will help in diagnosis but the speedo was working while the vehicle was sitting stationary when first gear was engaged.

  3. #3
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    More than likely an axle half shaft.
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  4. #4
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    Sounds like a broken rear half-shaft to me as well. Get a good workshop manual and you will find that it is a straight forward job to change it.

    The car should be driveable in high 4 (yellow knob down); I can't understand why it only moves on the flat

    Cheers Charlie

  5. #5
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    Rescue Complete

    Double Post...learning about attachments
    Last edited by reubsrover; 22nd August 2010 at 08:44 PM. Reason: Double Post

  6. #6
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    Rescue Complete

    Thanks a lot for your quick diagnosis and help Charlie and Slunnie. Forgot to mention (perhaps out of a bit of embarassment) that I had to desert the Rover last night as it wouldn't make it up the short hill and back onto the downhill run out of the Watagans (on the Central Coast where I'm at uni). The limited slip diff on the front (I assumes???) meant all my power was only on one of the front wheels and a one wheel drive Rover just wouldn't make it. Went back this arvo for the rescue attempt knowing that I would only have to get it about 20m up not too steep a slope and it would limp home in 4wd. Not to be however and my few friends who own 4wds weren't around so in absolute desperation me and a mate attempted to us a Hyundai Exel to give the Landy a bit mor pull but not surprisingly it didn't make a difference. The Excel got back up the slope no worries and we waited until a mate with a Prado came and pulled the Landy to the top. Only found time for one photo though.



    So now we're back on flat ground I'll have to start pulling things apart and assessing the damage. Where's my best bet for getting good Landy (SIII) parts around Central Coast way?

    Again thanks all for the advice.

    On another note I'm still trying to think up a good name, I'm calling it the Blue Box for now. Any suggestions?
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by reubsrover View Post
    Thanks a lot for your quick diagnosis and help Charlie and Slunnie. Forgot to mention (perhaps out of a bit of embarassment) that I had to desert the Rover last night as it wouldn't make it up the short hill and back onto the downhill run out of the Watagans (on the Central Coast where I'm at uni). The limited slip diff on the front (I assumes???) meant all my power was only on one of the front wheels and a one wheel drive Rover just wouldn't make it. Went back this arvo for the rescue attempt knowing that I would only have to get it about 20m up not too steep a slope and it would limp home in 4wd. Not to be however and my few friends who own 4wds weren't around so in absolute desperation me and a mate attempted to us a Hyundai Exel to give the Landy a bit mor pull but not surprisingly it didn't make a difference. The Excel got back up the slope no worries and we waited until a mate with a Prado came and pulled the Landy to the top. Only found time for one photo though.



    So now we're back on flat ground I'll have to start pulling things apart and assessing the damage. Where's my best bet for getting good Landy (SIII) parts around Central Coast way?

    Again thanks all for the advice.

    On another note I'm still trying to think up a good name, I'm calling it the Blue Box for now. Any suggestions?
    Are you sure that both front hubs were enabled?? (Assuming it has them, as I can't see them in that photo)..

    I blew a rear axle in my shorty. (Tried to take off too quick on a hill in the city, by dropping the clutch and accelerating too quick. All I heard was a loud BANG). I managed to roll back into a side street, and check for damage. But didn't have the time, to check properly. So I engaged the front hubs (And pressed the yellow lever) and drove it to work and back on the front diff.. She drove as if I was driving with the rear only.. No problems at all.. I was lucky that the axle broke at the hub end, (passenger side) so was only a matter of getting a new one, and popping it in, and it was back to normal.

    Sounds like you may have other problems on the front diff or something..

    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
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    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
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    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  8. #8
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    From your attached photograph, your problem appears to have happened on a dirt track. When the vehicle stopped while attempting to go up the incline, were either of the front wheels spinning? This is normal. When climbing, weight is transferred to the rear of the vehicle, reducing traction on the front wheels, resulting in one of both of them spinning. If this is encountered, then try driving up the incline in reverse. The front wheels will now act like back wheels.

    Aaron.

  9. #9
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    Of course..why didn't I think of that. Thanks Aaron.

    I was wondering about that Wolf, both hubs were definately engaged but as soon as I attempted to clim the reasonably steep incline (though it can't have been that bad since a Hyundai Excel got back up it) one front wheel would just lose traction and spin with the other remaining stationary. I assumed this is because it doesn't have a manual diff lock on the front?? It would be a limited slip diff?? I have dont a bit of 4wding but still learning the ropes.

    So once I was towed to the top of the hill the vehicle drove well on the front diff back home.

  10. #10
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    G'day All, It does look as though it has free whell hubs, as I can see a black ?object on the center of the front right wheel, if these are faulty or not engaged that will allow for both prop shafts to be turning with no forward motion (we are assuming that you have a broken axle on the rear), is the vehicle a swb? or a 109, as a 109 S3 should have a Salisbury differential fitted, they are not known to readily break axles.
    If it's a Rover type rear differential, as fitted to SWB, axles are readily available (so are Salisbury) Rover type axles are easily replaced.
    To check get the L/R on a flat surface, chock wheels etc, you can either drop the oil from the rear diff, or jack it up a side at a time, (this will stop oil loss from hub/diff) undo the 6 bolts that hold the drive flange to the hub, lever it loose and withdraw, if you a full axle it will have a splined end, clean drive flange, fit gasket/silastic whatever you choose!, refit bolts tighten, then do the same to the other side, you will soon find the problem, if axles x 2 are OK see below..
    I have encountered at times where the axles have worn the drive flanges so much that they have chewed out the splines in that part, that could be your problem, if not you will have to remove rear prop shaft (4 bolts) at the diff, undo the ?10 nuts that hold the diff into the housing, prise it loose with a screwdriver and lever it out, it will be heavy so watch yourself hands.
    A qiuck check of the diff, by turning the drive flange will soon show if it has a cracked/broken hemisphere or too much backlash in the planetary gears and has knocked off teeth or smashed the planetary gears, if you drop the diff oil look for telltale bits/debris in the oil, put your finger up in the hole to check for debris inside the housing, anyway apart from coming down and doing the job thats about all I can tell you to do, it's not rocket science all very easy and uncomplicated.
    Spanner sizes, 5/16"Whitworth for the 6 bolts that hold the drive flanges to the hub.
    Most likely 9/16" AF to undo prop/shaft and 10 nuts that hold the diff in the housing.
    A 5/8" or 11/16" open ender with a shifting spanner, put the flat side of the open ender into the slot in the diff oil plug, then using the shifter turn it anti-clockwise, this will undo the plug to allow you to drop the oil into a suitable container, hope thats of some help cheers Dennis
    ps all up it shouldnt take anymore than 1 hour to determine problem
    pps just read that you have front wheel drive so the F/wheel hubs are OK,,.

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