Thread: Dumb Question

Originally Posted by Randylandy

Just took my cab off the chassis today and started stripping the bits off in antisipation of having it sand blasted. Have unbolted all the bolts i could find at the front and back of the tank under the drivers seat but can't seem to get the tank to come lose am I missing somthing? It does not leak so dont want to butcher it.

Is your tank roughly rectangular, a bit narrower at the top, or does it have the square valley section removed in the middle of the top?

Peter

It is an L shape with a shorter section at the front Have a 6cyl 109" tray back if that makes any differance. Looking down from the top it is rectangula. It has some sort of tin guard around the bottom and half way up both ends. It looks like it just sitting there but stuffed if i can get it to move.

Originally Posted by Randylandy

Just took my cab off the chassis today and started stripping the bits off in antisipation of having it sand blasted. Have unbolted all the bolts i could find at the front and back of the tank under the drivers seat but can't seem to get the tank to come lose am I missing somthing? It does not leak so dont want to butcher it.

I have also experienced this issue after dismantling my 67 series 2a.

The tank is a bitparts replacement and while it doesn't appear to be welded to the chassis it doesn't want to budge at this stage.

Will utilise rubber mallet and post any useful findings.

There should be 3 bolts at the front and 3 bolts at the rear.

It is common for the tanks to require a bit of effort to remove - however disconnect the sender and fuel pickup before trying.

Usually the tank collects mud etc at the front and the back to help glue it in place. The tanks are only thin so be gentle. And make sure there are no fingers etc underneath the tank (a guy in the UK lost half a finger removing a half full series fuel tank!).

If you can, a tyre lever in between the front bracket and the tank may help.

Due to the manufacturing tolerances of series landies and aftermarket tanks, I have needed some massaging with a BFH in order to fit a tank in the past.

Thanks for that will give it a bit more what for and see if we can dislodge it. Would have done so before but as I said did not want to damage a good tank forcing it if I was missing somthing. Plenty of old mud and crap in there so fingers crossed.

isuzurover was spot on, i.e. 3 bolts at the front and 3 bolts at the rear, now the tank is off.

just a thought-- is it possible to put a 300 tdi engine in a series 3, and what gearbox would you match with it. I have to say, this is my lotto winning fantasy.I would love to build a vehicle to match Roothy from 4wd action, just to shut him up. I currently drive a 1999 D2, about to drive to Karumba in Nov., but would love to do up a series3 , one day. Cheers, Bob10

Anything is possible! 200Tdi is easier, as the bell housing and mounts match, although the gearbox will need treating gently to survive very long.

The Series T/C is up to the job, even if the gearbox isn't. Full time four wheel drive would see the need to install the gearbox and transfer case that came with the engine. This is, in itself, quite feasible, although in a swb the rear prop shaft may be getting a bit short, but the problem is finding a front axle with CV joints. The obvious one is a Stage 1 axle, but these are not exactly common.

While readily available, the RRC/D1 axles pose (steering linkage) problems in fitting to leaf springs, and the increased track may also be a problem. These problems are not insuperable, but you have to wonder whether it is worth it - an alternative might be, for example, start with a RRC and fit a S3 body to a shortened or lengthened chassis, and fit the 300Tdi. But then, why not just get a Defender?

John