Grab your crank handle from behind the seats and put the misses to good useQuote:
Originally Posted by jimbob
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Grab your crank handle from behind the seats and put the misses to good useQuote:
Originally Posted by jimbob
Grab your crank handle from behind the seats and put the misses to good use
I just did that Chomby. She wanted to know if all cars have this....hehehe
Any way problem seems to be on #6 conrod bearing. Heeaaaps of play. I have not got it off yet so dont know how much damage to conrod or crank.
Hopfully repairable...fingers crossed
Jim
Here are the results. I am no expert on these internal problems. Does this mean crank out regrind and new bearings back in. Do i just do this bearing? Do i do all bearings main bearings included? Do i just do the con rod bearings or do i just pop a new bearing in and hope for the best?????
Attachment 33376
Attachment 33377
Attachment 33378
As you can tell i have no idea about this.
Cheers Jim
I would say get your crank worked and balanced and replace all your big end/little end and journal bearings while the bottom ends out. Nothing like a smooth engine. To get it running you only need the one fixed (from what you've told us) but youll be kicking yourself if you dont take advantage of it now. While you've got your sump off take the distributor shaft out and check the brass gear in the middle for wear, its another small thing that will eventually go wrong leaving you powerless.Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbob
P.s. Sorry to the lad in the commy sitting next to my exhaust with his window down when my distributor lost its teeth. He probably only just regained his hearing
Im no expert on this but id be looking for the cause of the failure before fixing anything.
Tony
[QUOTE=jimbob;1426765]Here are the results. I am no expert on these internal problems. Does this mean crank out regrind and new bearings back in. Do i just do this bearing? Do i do all bearings main bearings included? Do i just do the con rod bearings or do i just pop a new bearing in and hope for the best?????
Hi Jim
That big end journal on the crank needs to be reground.
A cheap way around this is to find a same model motor that has been removed because its exhaust valves have burnt out, and use the crank out of that.
Cheers Arthur
Wow... Just had a look at how big a job it is to take out the crank.
Manual says.....
Remove bonnet
remove air cleaner
remove radiator grill and panel complete
remove front floor
remove engine from vehicle
remove crank case sump
fit the engine to a suitable stand
remove oil pump
remove engine front cover
remove timing chain and tensioner
remove clutch and fly wheel
remove fly wheel housing
And then you get to remove the Crank from the motor....
Might be a good time to just through in a 200 tdi....
If you are keen on a 200tdi I agree that it would be a good time to put one in, bearing in mind the cost of the new engine; the condition of the new engine and any potential repairs needed; and the work involved to make it fit (doing this myself right now).
The crank on your petrol engine will need grinding on all of the big-end journals not just one of them and probably the mains will need doing as well. If there is excessive wear on the bores you may as well have it re-bored, whilst the block is stripped. As Chomby says it is then worth re-conditioning/inspecting all of the ancillaries such as the distributor and carbie, otherwise there is not much point fixing all of the bottom end. My S1 cost me $2400 for most of the parts and a long-engine recondition.
Good luck,
Cheers Charlie
Hi Chazza, How is the 200 tdi fit going? What stage are you at with it?
Cheers jim.
If you go with the 200tdi could I buy parts out of your 2.6's?
