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Thread: Door latch adjustment....

  1. #1
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    Door latch adjustment....

    I'm just wondering if there is a procedure to follow to adjust the door latches / locks as fitted to Series III's , Counties etc.

    My County doors all click shut, but I'm trying to get a Series III with problematic doors to do the same. It would be good if they just closed properly and didn't fly open around corners. Any advice please ???

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Which door locks? Early Series 3 had bolt type locks same as Series 1 and 2/2a, later ones had antiburst locks from some time in the mid seventies. The locks are interchangeable together with their striker plates, so what it has is not necessarily what it started life with.

    The striker plate is adjustable by loosening the bolts that secure it to the door pillar, but if doors are not latching or are coming open, it is probable that locks or striker plates or both need replacing. In the case of the bolt type lock, appreciable wear on either the bolt or striker plate is an indication that replacement is needed. Usually on the antiburst locks the problem is that the lock rather than the striker plate is worn, specifically the pivot of the rotating grip.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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    It's a '76 model but I'm not sure what type locks/latches are fitted, but they will be original equipment. The problem is the latches not locking on the striker plates, however, I've blown them out with an airline and lubricated all moving bits and now have two doors that shut correctly.The front passenger door has to be fiddled with but does shut correctly eventually. The drivers door seems to have something adrift inside and will not close correctly.
    I've also noticed that the front seat belt mounts are very close to the doorframes when the doors are closed. Maybe upgraded locks and seatbelts will be required.

  4. #4
    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerryd View Post
    It's a '76 model but I'm not sure what type locks/latches are fitted, but they will be original equipment. The problem is the latches not locking on the striker plates, however, I've blown them out with an airline and lubricated all moving bits and now have two doors that shut correctly.The front passenger door has to be fiddled with but does shut correctly eventually. The drivers door seems to have something adrift inside and will not close correctly.
    I've also noticed that the front seat belt mounts are very close to the doorframes when the doors are closed. Maybe upgraded locks and seatbelts will be required.
    If there is something adrift in the lock, it will probably need to be replaced. They are readily available and easy to remove and refit, but if it is the antiburst type (likely at that date) they are fairly expensive, or were last time I got one. Assuming it is this type of lock, make sure the meshing bits on the lock and striker plate are lubricated with drilube or similar. Also, make sure the door is closing properly, not missing the opening a bit due to worn hinges or damaged or rusty bulkhead or door frame.

    The outer bottom seatbelt mount, which is the one I assume you are talking about will be close to the door frame but should not touch it. If it does, it is the wrong mount, wrongly installed or damaged, or just has the wrong bolt securing the seatbelt - should be one with a thin head. Changing the belt will not affect this, although a new belt may be the only way of getting the right bolt!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  5. #5
    drifter Guest
    Do they look like this:

    ~$140

    ~$25

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    If it's a 76 model they will not be the anti-burst type. Had the same on my Series III. Made going round corners rather interesting. In the end I just purchased a set of anti-burst locks.

    Ivan

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    JDNSW's Avatar
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    Drifter's picture is the antiburst lock - give less trouble but are much more expensive than the older type. My 2a is fitted with them.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info, here's a couple of pics of the type fitted.I've also included a shot of the seat belt mount which doesn't seem to be at all practical as the belt is continuously dropping and fouling on the door. These will be high on the list to be replaced.

    Where is the best place to purchase these anti burst locks ??

    Pics of vehicle in "members rides"
    Attached Images Attached Images

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    The ones you have are already the anti-burst locks. So the problem appears to be the near side lock is not connecting as it should. I think (not 100% on this) that adjustment is via the hinges. i.e. You loosen off the nearside hinges and move the door until it is connecting with the latching bar on the body. May also be worth checking that the nearside lock is actually holding. It may be a worn locke.
    Also check for movement of the door. i.e. close the door and then try to move it up and down and see if it unlocks itself.

    HTH

    Ivan

  10. #10
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    That seat belt attachment is certainly non-standard and equally certainly that style of belt illegal today. The actual mounting bracket looks as if it could be correct (but may be a home copy of one) but the eyebolt is not - should be a flat headed bolt going into the threaded bracket through a hole in the plate on the end of the belt.

    It is quite possible that that eyebolt is stopping the doors from closing, as there is little room to spare there, and this may be the source of some of your door problems.

    John
    Last edited by JDNSW; 15th March 2011 at 09:29 AM. Reason: spelling - had bolt for belt!
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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