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Top idea with the rotisserie Marty!
What lubricant did you use between the spring leaves?
My brother has just helped me get the new engine into my S3 so the springs have had their first test with a decent weight on them and so far all seems well. Thanks as well to Isuzu Rover who put me on to the spring mods :D
Cheers Charlie
Yes unfortunately it's still on the "things to do" list, but fibreglass is on option I've been rattling around in my head.Quote:
Originally Posted by dunnymel
Yeah, the rotisserie worked well, but I can't remember where I saw the idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by chazza
After a bit of reading I had an even argument for, lube or no lube. I ended up going with no lube between the leaves as I was worried that the pitting on my springs plus lube would become a haven for collected dirt.
I'll have to review my decision once Bella is operational, in case the ride is too harsh or springs too squeaky ( if I can hear them over the 2.25d!)
a little thought of mine on the pitting in your leaves..
i'd probably consider them as a lubricant reservoir(s)
ok they may collect a little dirt/metals from the friction between the leaves but i'd expect it to be ground down a lot faster than the surrounding area and added to the lubricant, effectively turning it into a sticky smooth paste that helps to support and ease the friction between the leaves
this hopefully would make the ride slightly smoother
i oiled a set of springs on my old 88" that had bound themselves solid with rust, i didn't strip the packs i just jacked the chassis up to take the weight off them and allow the leaves to seperate to assist getting the oil between them
i repeated this operation a couple of times over the next few weeks, this allowed the rust to break up and squeeze out, mixed with the oils it came out as a thick greasy mess
the repeated oiling and subsequent driving which forced the springs to flex polished the leaves and made them work nicely
this is just my way of thinking and my personal experience of "my" springs
Another fact about pitting, is that it is causing stress-raisers in the metal, which means that the springs are being weakened as the rust progresses. Filling the pits with oil or grease will hopefully slow that process down a lot.Quote:
Originally Posted by '76swb
In any case; a rust-bound pile of un-supple springs, with a harsh jarring ride and wear steps forming, is not as good as a supple spring pack with a comfortable ride, which is wearing out gradually.
Good advice from Nitemare :D Dirty springs can be pressure washed and re-lubed after off-roading.
I am superbly happy with my greased front springs now - I bounce up and down on the chassis at least once a day :D
Cheers Charlie
So would the general consensus be to use a graphite grease, or is there something better? I've heard of some people using a lubricant similar to the stuff used on motorbike chains.
chain grease is thick and sticky once the carrier has evaporated so will penetrate quite well and will stay where put for quite a while (springs give the grease less of a workout than a motorcycle chain), can be bought in aerosols at any motorcycle shop here in the U.K.
it's difficult to find it as a grease (more like a wax that you would heat and melt to submerge your chain in) nowadays, i guess it's gone due to elf and softy laws now :( but i guess this grease would be less use on an assembled spring pack as you'd struggle to get it between the leaves
i just use engine oils in a high pressure oil can and reapply every now and then with the chassis jacked up, this allows a reasonable capillary action to draw the oil in between the leaves
it's a little slow to apply in this manner and can be messy as the excess drips back out so if it's parked on an area that you can get into trouble make sure you put drip trays under the springs for the first day
I can pretty much use anything as the springs are still sitting on the shed floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by NiteMare
If I slack off the center bolt on the spring packs, I might be able to grease them without having to completely dismantle them again.
I have an aerosol can of bike chain lube that leaves a white coating on the chain. I might dig that out and have a read of its properties.
Thanks for everyones input on this,
Regards,
Marty.
Great discussion re leaf springs. Raised some suspicions....I have just been out with the torch and diagnosed ceased spring pack x 4 on my resto project.
Silly me, I had assumed series III's were meant to ride as hard as buggery!
no need to slacken the centre bolt just wedge a small chisel between the leaves, squirt a fair bit of chain grease in and then move onto the next leavesQuote:
Originally Posted by '76swb
simples ;)
my series 3 trayback was a very hard ride particularly with no weight on it. Eventually pulled the springs off at a bush change time and split the pack. after wire brushing they were re assembled with molydisulphide grease. Much better ride and significantly reduced bump steer etc.
There was a theory around that the old engine oil should be squirted onto the spring pack. Stops rusting and leave sticking. ;)