Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17

Thread: Shocks to Suit Parabolic Spring Upgrade

  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Austral, Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Timj View Post
    Hi Wolf,

    Biggest thing about Parabolics is that they don't have any interleaf friction which creates it's own dampening effect in standard springs. Therefore the best match is gas filled shocks to provide more dampening from the shock. Parabolics will likely raise the vehicle a little but if you still have your check straps in place then the standard length shocks should do the job. You have to be careful with longer shocks as they lose out on the compressed length so don't necessarily help unless you also move the upper mounting point. Parabolics being a softer spring should compress easier than standard and will therefore cause an issue. The Rocky Mountain ones that were on my Game when I bought it were matched with ProComp dampers and they are still on there.

    I'm not a big fan of parabolics having had both Rocky Mountain and two sets of BritPart ones sag pretty badly. I ended up taking a set of aftermarket standard springs and diamond cutting and chamfering the ends as well as removing two leaves from the back and one from the front. These seem to work pretty well and are much less choppy on the SWB than original standard springs.

    TimJ.
    I forgot to mention that.. I was told that with standard springs, landy's don't really need the shocks. As one won't notice any handling differences, with or without the shocks. With paras it's a must.

    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  2. #12
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Brisbane,Qld.
    Posts
    1,194
    Total Downloaded
    0
    By set them up properly I mean removing just enough leaves to make them softer while still able to carry the load you want, cleaning and oiling them to make them slide over each other better, chamfering the top of each end of the leaf to help it slide over the one above and cutting the ends to a diamond shape for the same reason. Keep them clean and oiled after doing all that and they will work surprisingly well.

    And yes with a standard spring pack with a bit of rust and dirt there is probably enough friction to make shocks a bit redundant. If they are working properly you will need shocks.

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  3. #13
    ashhhhh Guest
    Hey Wolf, don't buy overseas mate - they have an Aussie distributor!
    Ben at "Landy bits"
    Ill post his contact details if you like.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Narrogin WA
    Posts
    3,092
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Wolfman_TWP View Post
    In what way do you mean set them up properly??

    Wolf
    Check out this post of mine here Wolfie. I did what Isuzu Rover advised and earlier on in the thread are shots of the unbelievable articulation he gets from his modified leaf springs.

    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-3/4...st1194121.html

    Cheers Charlie

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Austral, Sydney, NSW
    Posts
    285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by ashhhhh View Post
    Hey Wolf, don't buy overseas mate - they have an Aussie distributor!
    Ben at "Landy bits"
    Ill post his contact details if you like.
    Thanks Ashhhhh,

    Too late, I have already ordered them, plus a few other bits and pieces..

    Post the details, they will come in handy..

    Wolf
    1972 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1974 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Jess - (Registered)
    1975 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1978 - S3 LWB (109) Wagon - Parts
    1979 - S3 SWB (88) Utility - Aurora (TBR)
    2014 - Defender (110) - Cher (MY15)

  6. #16
    biashara Guest

    Extended travel shocks for parabolic springs

    Use range rover rear on rear and SWB rear on front. Or full set of procomp extended travel which are always available through Victorian parts provider (can't say who here)

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW far north coast
    Posts
    17,285
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Timj View Post
    Hi Wolf,

    Biggest thing about Parabolics is that they don't have any interleaf friction which creates it's own dampening effect in standard springs. Therefore the best match is gas filled shocks to provide more dampening from the shock. [snip]

    TimJ.
    Gas filling a damper does NOT increase damping rates.
    All it does, depending on damper design, is reduce or eliminate cavitation, and most people never get a damper hot enough or piston speeds fast enough to cause this in normal, day to day driving.

    Some damping info
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/372233-post15.html
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/401658-post7.html
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/545668-post6.html


    Personally, I'd use Koni's.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!