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Thread: Advice - Transfer Case

  1. #1
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    Advice - Transfer Case

    Hi All,

    Some urgent advice please - I have been offered for sale what I think is a S3. They say it's a 69 - from looking at the photo's it looks to be in very good nick. It's a SWB.

    I am going to inspect it this weekend.

    It has "one problem" - the seller has said:

    "It's a great car, but the last time that I used it the transfer case bound-up. I've been told that to fix it all you need to do is undo the rear prop-shaft, pop it in and out of gear, and the transfer case will free-up no problem"

    Does this sound legitimate OR does it sounds like an excuse to dump a car with a dead gearbox?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated - if anybody has had advice or had this situation, I would really appreciate it.

    OR - how expensive would it to be to replace the transfer case/gear box on a SWB S3?

    Thanks,
    The Grey Ghost!

  2. #2
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    Hi Tom,

    I've posted those goodies for you by the way.....

    As for the other question, if it was such an easy fix, would the seller not have been better off doing this before selling? Would have got a better price for the vehicle.

    Sounds fishy to me but I'm as yet unenlightened in the many intricacies of series gearboxes so maybe it is true. Used ones seem to be around and fairly cheap too (sold one myself on ebay a few weeks back which was missing the output gear where an overdrive was once fitted, it went for $78, another one I'm selling for $150)

    I guess if you hope for the best but plan for the worst you can't go too far wrong.

  3. #3
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    Could be a late 2a with the lights in the wings.
    If it is a good car it may still be worth it and then replace/repair the transfer case.

  4. #4
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    I'd rather S2A than S3

    S3 syncro gearboxes are not the most reliable, but a late 2A gearbox is good.
    If the Land Rover that you are looking at has the transferbox now working freely, it may have been only wound up after using it in 4wd on the road and by releasing the load on it, the four wheel drive coupling was then able to come out of mesh.
    .

  5. #5
    LWB123 Guest

    Not a S3

    Quote Originally Posted by grey_ghost View Post
    I have been offered for sale what I think is a S3. They say it's a 69 - from looking at the photo's it looks to be in very good nick. It's a SWB.
    the seller has said:

    "It's a great car, but the last time that I used it the transfer case bound-up. I've been told that to fix it all you need to do is undo the rear prop-shaft, pop it in and out of gear, and the transfer case will free-up no problem"

    Does this sound legitimate OR does it sounds like an excuse to dump a car with a dead gearbox?
    Hello from Brisbane.

    Re the first query, it is unlikely to be a Series 3 if it was built in 1969. The Series 3 only commenced production in the UK in 1971 and for Australia they only came on stream ex-Sydney about the middle of 1973 - we had a 1972 Series 2A for years.

    On the second query about the wound up transfer case, I can't offer sage advice on potential damage that might or might not be in there. However, as others have already said the transmission 'wind up' typically occurs when the vehicles are driven in 4WD on a hard surface and it does not take much to do it - feels like the transfers levers have been welded stuck. That is why the owner is suggesting undoing the propellor shaft and pulling it into and out of gear.

    Oddly enough you can usually 'undo' it by simply pulling onto the verge or onto some loose ground and either reversing or running forward a little. This takes the pressure off the drive enough to let you disengage 4WD. To still be stuck suggests that it was well and truly wound up and might have suffered damage as a result. That or the owner is a bit of a goose............

    Cheers,

  6. #6
    drifter Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by grey_ghost View Post
    Hi All,

    Some urgent advice please - I have been offered for sale what I think is a S3. They say it's a 69 - from looking at the photo's it looks to be in very good nick. It's a SWB.

    I am going to inspect it this weekend.

    It has "one problem" - the seller has said:

    "It's a great car, but the last time that I used it the transfer case bound-up. I've been told that to fix it all you need to do is undo the rear prop-shaft, pop it in and out of gear, and the transfer case will free-up no problem"

    Does this sound legitimate OR does it sounds like an excuse to dump a car with a dead gearbox?

    Any advice would be greatly appreciated - if anybody has had advice or had this situation, I would really appreciate it.

    OR - how expensive would it to be to replace the transfer case/gear box on a SWB S3?

    Thanks,
    The Grey Ghost!
    Amongst the photos you have, is there one of the interior?

    If so, have a look at the instrument cluster. Is it mounted in front of the steering wheel or in the middle of the dash like your other one?

    If it is in the middle and is a '69 then it is a 2a. If it is above the steering wheel then it is a Series 3 dash and more likely to be '79 than '69.

    Agree with the others re the gearbox.

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    As the others have said. Damage to the transfer case (or anything else) due to windup is unlikely. The transfer gears may be stuck due to rust on the selector shafts, and while there are possibilities of catastrophic failures of the transfer case that might give similar symptoms, these are both quite unlikely and reasonably cheap to fix. (And to unwind windup, you don't need to disconnect the prop shaft - just jack up one wheel)

    If it is a 2a, which it has to be if it is a 1969, the gearbox is probably the best of any Series. Distinguishing features of 2a versus 3:-

    Instrument cluster - 2a in centre, 3 in front of driver
    Dashboard - 2a metal, 3 plastic
    Windscreen hinges - 2a part of windscreen and bulkhead, 3 separate parts
    Door hinges - 2a door part sits on top of lower part and stick out, 3 almost flush. (but hinges are interchangeable)

    There are other differences, but these should cover it. Of course, the key thing is the chassis number, as most assembles can be swapped between 2a/3!

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Hi Everybody,

    Thanks very much for the info/advice.

    I am going to inspect the car on Saturday morning and depending on rust, will probably purchase regardless of "sick" transfer case. Reading the posts it may not even be a real problem... But as suggested I should plan for the worst.

    I too thought "if it was that easy to fix then the seller is mad not to have tried it himself"

    I have had a closer look at the photo's and although they are not the best, it's amazing what details you notice...

    I am starting to think that it is a 2a (not a 3). My reasons being:

    * The hinges are like those of my Series 2 (1961) - not flat like a S3.
    * Instruments are in the center (like my 61) - not in front of the driver like a S3.

    Other interesting features that I can see (the photos are a little rough):
    * The hand brake looks vertical (my 61 has a curved -45o angle). Again 2a/3.
    * There appears to be a aerial on the front passenger wing (or what's left of one)
    * It appears to have a safari style roof
    * It has sun-rasia style rims
    * It has side steps
    * It has door locks
    * It has very non standard seats - buckets from the looks of them
    * It has plenty of spider webs!
    * Number plate/light mounted on the left - on my 61 it's mounted on the right
    * Tow bar + mud flaps.
    * It's missing the rear door spare wheel carrier - although there are holes there that suggest it originally had one.
    * Exhaust exists rear right (my 61 mid-way down passenger side)

    Fingers crossed that it's in good nick and I'm not wasting my time!

    Thanks again everybody for the advice!

    I shall post some pictures if I proceed with the purchase!

    Regards,
    The Grey Ghost

  9. #9
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    my money says a combination of burring on the front drive engagement unit and rust on the selectors.

    bout 5 hours to do in situe on the car if you have the bits, tools and patients.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

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    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  10. #10
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    Hi All,

    Well I inspected the car yesterday - with help from Gromit.
    A big thank you to Gromit for his time & knowledge (and for him showing me his collection...)
    In summary - the car needed too much work and the condition was too unknown to take the risk.
    We did not discover what the problem was with the "bound transfer" case.
    However we did discover:
    * It was a 69 2a SWB
    * It had a nice safari roof - apart from the hole in the roof that somebody had used an axe on...
    * The door tops/bottoms needed replacing
    * The bonnet needed replacing
    * Carpet had been glued to the floor panels, and would need removing (very moldy)
    * It had non-standard wheels, which would not pass a roadworthy (apart from the fact that a few of the wheels were badly rusted)
    * It had oil leaks from all of the hubs.
    * It had major oil splash on the firewall/engine bay
    * The vendor couldn't start it - so no way to see/hear it running
    * It had bucket seats bolted (very poorly) onto the seat box
    * It does have parabolic springs
    * The interior was covered in spider webs / dirt/dust/grime.
    * It looked like it had rust on the rear cross member but it was hard to tell because of the way the towbar had been welded on
    * It had some sort of after market heater - condition unknown
    * The "brakes needed some work" - couldn't test drive, so who knows?
    * The body was in reasonable condition - not perfect, but not bad.
    * The chassis seemed to be in reasonable condition - it was hard to tell as it was parked in rather tall/wet grass.
    * The seat box had a large square cut out of it's side - so you could access the tool box due to the bucket seats.
    * The front bumper was stuffed.
    * It was missing the standard air cleaner
    * The interior was full of crap and it was difficult to see the condition of it.
    * The hinges on the one-piece rear tailgate had rusted shut.
    * The cabin was in multiple colours, so hard to tell if it had been repainted or a mixture of panels
    * The rood lining was stuffed.
    * We could not tell the condition of any of the electrics

    In the words of Gromit "it would probably be a good parts car for somebody"

    As I wanted something to restore that wasn't too far gone - I decided to pass on it.

    Nothing ventured nothing gained... I shall be patient - something will turn up.

    Once again - a big thanks to Gromit!

    Regards,
    The Grey Ghost!

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