Printable View
Hello Dromader,Quote:
Originally Posted by dromader driver
The camper is off the back of Baldrick and it is currently unregistered so the Police won't like me taking a spin on the Bruce. As much as I would like to - I could always say that it is okay because Dromader said I should :). As good as that reason is I don't think the people in blue would understand. Thank you for your reply.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
Thanks to Paul's (Pop058) assistance Baldrick is home from the welder's place. So there is now no rust in the front passenger's side dumb iron. The rust has been cut out the lower part of the radiator frame. Baldrick now has all the steel mud guards for the tray - one was missing when I bought the ute. It also has a head board on the tray as this must have been taken off when the previous owner put the camper on the back. No head board was included when I bought Baldrick.
The thing I am most pleased about is that there are now legally operating reverse lights that actually work. When I took the tunnel cover off there was no sign of the reverse switch in the gearbox shifter mount and there wasn't any wires anywhere in sight.
I found a live wire - as in with heaps of current even with the ignition turned off that came out of the rear part of the chassis with bare wire floating about:eek: . I traced the wire to the engine bay and disconnected it from the terminal strip the electrical engineer original owner fitted for the camper. I then found a wire in the lower part of the steering column loom which was hooked into the ignition switch circuit. I used this wire to hook up power to the reverse switch and connected the wires to the previously constantly hot wire at the rear of the chassis. With a bit more wire and some connectors hooked up under the tray I can now turn the ignition on and select reverse and see two reverse lights shining away.
Disengage reverse and the lights go off. Put Baldrick into reverse - and the reverse lights come on again. This must have been the first time in decades or when the last full road worthy inspection was done - who knows how long ago.:):)
So now all the lights work on each corner work. I have nice bright stop lights when the brakes come on. The big bonus is nice bright reverse lights too. For the front face I have new H4 head lights to fit. :D
So I am a couple of more steps closer to getting Baldrick registered and back on the road.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Lionel,
good to see it coming together and the wiggly amps working. I was wondering who did the welding as I am going to need some assistance on a bulkhead. :D
It was a local guy up here in Bundy and it was his last job before retiring.:(Quote:
Originally Posted by dromader driver
Hello All,
When I got Baldrick he had a very good driver's side mirror that had been adapted to fit on to the door frame. The mirror 1s a 22 cm by 17.5 cm so it was a good size and kept its adjustment. On the passenger side the same mirror brackets had been fitted; but there was no longer a mirror head. The back of the driver's mirror was deeply scalloped and quite distinctive. Since owning Baldrick I have been dropping into car part stores in an effort to try and find the same sort of mirror head - to no avail.
Today I was watching the ABC TV show LandLine and there was a feature Trash Tackle (Trash Tackle - Landline - ABC) about 4WD owners who spend their holidays cleaning rubbish off the Birdsville Track and other bush tracks in South Australia. They happened to interview one bloke as he stood next to the door of his 4WD and in the back of the shot was an external rear-view mirror. "Hang-on"; I said to myself - "I know the shape of that mirror!" I then went to eBay and sure enough the mirror is off an early Nissan Patrol. I now know what is on my shopping list and where I am going to get it from. :). One tiny step closer to rego too.:D
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
Here is a picture grab from the Landline show - Trash Tackle Broadcast: 19/08/2012 1:18:13 PM Reporter: Kerry Staight Accessed Sunday August 2012 from http://www.abc.net.au/landline/content/2012/s3571027.htm
Thank you Aunty :)
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
When I removed the brake and clutch pedal box out of Baldrick I noticed that some brake fluid had leaked out on to paint work of the firewall and it was mangy. There was also some surface rust from where brake fluid had blistered off the paint.
So I got my angle grinder with a wire wheel and took it back to bare metal and then I primed the area with red oxide paint.
While I was doing wire wheel work I noticed that some of the welding repairs on the front chassis, front bumper and rear cross member started to have surface rust coming through the primer that the welder put on. Then I noticed the top of the firewall where the mirrors used to be mounted had a bit of surface rust starting there too.
So soon the wire wheel got busy and then Baldrick looked like he had chicken pox with all these red oxide spots and dots. Today after rubbing back the red oxide with some wet and dry I cleaned the areas and sprayed them with the White Knight top coat spray cans.
The only trouble is now Baldrick's rear cross member looks so much more respectable than Rebus's rear cross member. The part about this is that Rebus has always had a much better paint job than Baldrick since I have owned both vehicles. Baldrick did not get his name because he looked pretty!
Then I went around to the front and I can see that Baldrick has a nice newly painted front bumper with its new coat of satin black.
Hmmm, the nice new coat of paint on the front bumper sure does make the front diff housing look manky too!
Hmmm, Hmmm and compared to Baldrick's newly painted front bumper Rebus's bull bar certainly looks tatty now doesn't!
I think I have reached the point where there is danger ahead and it is time to take stock of where to stop with the wire wheel and the painting.
I will do Rebus's bull bar as it does make his original and still in very good condition duco look a bit sad. .... That's right, Rebus's rear cross member looks like it could do with a freshen up with a new coat of paint too. I can't have Baldrick with a nicer looking rear cross member can I!... :angel:
Kind Regards
Lionel
I think you need to take them both off road and get them dirty. Then they'll look the same....:D
Coop
Hello Fellow Series 3 Types :)
I have just had one of those "if it was a snake it would have bitten me moments." Or maybe it was not being able to see what is right in front of me. Anyway, here I have been researching Isuzu 4bd1 alternators so I could fit one to Baldrick when I swap the non-boosted single circuit brake system over to a dual circuit boosted system. For this I have chosen to get an alternator with a vacuum pump so it can run the brake booster for the diesel engine.
Well I lifted up Hunter's bonnet this morning - Hunter came with a 3/4 installed Nissan SD 33 diesel motor.... I had a closer look at the engine and I noticed an oil line coming off the bottom of the motor which then ran through to the alternator. Then I noticed a thinner line that runs from the alternator and is cut off just before it crosses over the top of the motor. I am not sure how many times I have lifted Hunter's bonnet and looked around for different parts and the locations of different things. Anyway, I checked some details about the Nissan SD 33 engine and they are negative earth :D.
Coop I might be able to get Baldrick running and getting dirty to hide the nice rear cross member under some mud sooner than I thought!
Kind Regards
Lionel
Hello All,
The weekend is closing and things have gone according to my cunning plans with Baldrick. It has transpired that with the aid of my tractor providing momentum and my good lady wife steering Baldrick there has been a shuffle around of vehicles.
The Commodore daily driver is getting some shade underneath a tree and Baldrick has usurped the Commodore's place within the shed. Gee don't Series 3 Land Rovers have such magnificent turning circle when they are being towed. We certainly went well past the three point turn stage.
Tomorrow afternoon I will be re-fitting the pedal boxes then jacking Baldrick up to work on the clutch hydraulics. I will also be overhaul the brakes and then bleeding them. This will mean that Baldrick will be able to drive out of the shed under its own power and be able to do such things again as being able to change gears and stop.
My later plan is to be able to get an interim registration and drive Baldrick to one of the diesel places and get his smoking issues looked at.
The other win was identifying the clutch slave cylinder on Hunter my Nissan SD33 diesel as a Land Rover Series 3 clutch slave cylinder. I am still working on identifying what type of Nissan gear box it is. Where the gear box identification codes on the Nissan Cabstar different between the petrol and the diesel powered engines?
Well Thereby closes the weekend. I hope everyone else was able to achieve a goal or two - even if they were small ones.
Do I want to repeat the towing experience with my one or two, or ... other parts Land Rovers that are in the paddock? Hmmm, after another reconnoitre I think that there is a hell of a lot more room to manoeuvre in the open paddock than there was in the house yard to get Baldrick into the shed. If the turning circle is too big I can just do a partial or full orbit with the tractor towing the Land Rover around. Then it is a case of line the vehicle up. Swap the chain around and tow or push the vehicle into place. Then do the same thing with the next one, and the next one and the ...
Kind Regards
Lionel