Salisbury diffs and series III 88"

Ok, so i've been reading a little; seems that the sals is only 2 inches longer than the rover (as far as propshafts are concerned) so only a 2 inch move backward would be required to run a standard prop.

interesting thought about the twist imposed on the chassis rails from outward springs... maybe modding the axle to 'under' would be better.

Another thing to think about is the shock mount. If modifying the axle to suit the 88, then moving it rearward 2" could the standard shock mount be used, and gain a possible 2" of shock length.... could this be advantageous for articulation? or become yet another problem for shock fade or something?

Have one here on a shorty.
Saddles have been changed on the housing.


Cheers, Mick

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by mick88

Have one here on a shorty.
Saddles have been changed on the housing.


Cheers, Mick

---

has the axle been moved back or do they run a fancy prop? Pros/cons of your setup?

Can someone clarify :

1. I thought sals axle mounts are same as rover axle, and moving one to 88" wouldn't require any mods.

2. Secondly, raising the pinion nose slightly up, wouldn't this affect oil lubrication of internal parts in axle housing.

As an previous owner of a 1977 swab with a 3.5 V8, Nissan 5 speed and sals rear diff it is all achievable without the claims of doom and driveline vibration!

The spring Location mounts on the underneath of the diff housing need to be shifted inboard to line up with the swb springs, and yes take the opportunity to tilt the diff up 3 to 5 degrees. No it won't hurt otherwise you would loose a diff everytime you went up hill. Keep it topped up however.

Try a S1 86" front prop in the rear, it should bolt in being two inches shorter than the 88" rear.

Oh, the V8 in the swb is like driving a slingshot, all the way up to stupid speeds, oh to be young and bullet proof again! If you go for the six pot then note that rover shifted the transmission back 4" in the lwb cars, and you will then have trouble getting a propshaft to fit. Best of luck, I love landie hybrids!!!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by toad

Try a S1 86" front prop in the rear, it should bolt in being two inches shorter than the 88" rear.

---

The 86" prop shafts have the same part number for front and back, therefore the lengths are the same.

The 88" has a 2" longer shaft in the front only, the rear prop shaft in a 88" remains the same part number therefore the same length as the 86".

The Series 2A prop shafts did have larger universal joints, so if modifying have a look at using these stronger uni's.
.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment...8-img_3169.jpg

What you can see here is the top of the axle housing, the difference is underneath the axle housing tubes where the springs sit and there you need to weld some locating pads for the narrower spring placement.

The spring pads not only set the pinion angle, but also have a hole to lock the center bolt into, this is to stop the axle housing sliding forward or back on the spring pack.

The old salisbury shock absorbers mounts will need to be removed to clear the shock absorbers for the 88".
.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by reachjatt

Can someone clarify :

1. I thought sals axle mounts are same as rover axle, and moving one to 88" wouldn't require any mods.

2. Secondly, raising the pinion nose slightly up, wouldn't this affect oil lubrication of internal parts in axle housing.

---

Salisbury axles were only used on 109 models which had the spring mounts outside the chassis rails. Rover and Salis assemblies from a 109 are interchangeable with different prop shafts.

88" had the spring mounts underneath the chassis rails. So to fit the Salis to an 88" you need to modify either the chassis to the 109 position or the plates on the Sals to the 88" position.

Yes you would potentially reduce lubrication to the front pinion bearing, but you wouldn't need to elevate the front a great deal so it is a compromise with reduced bearing life and acute angles on uni-joints.

On your photo I have shown the position of the 109 U bolts in yellow.

Thanks everyone that definitely gives better understanding... I suppose then mounts should be easy change only need to make sure prop shaft and joints are done correctly.

Also, Thanks Diana for pointing out U bolts.

When I tilted up the rear diff in the 6x6 I welded a new level plug into the cover plate a bit higher up.