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Thread: Steering Relay Box

  1. #1
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    Steering Relay Box

    How snug a fit should the relay box be in the chassis?
    I know that they seize in place, so obviously they are a reasonably firm fit. I have one that was moving at the base when the steering was flexed and I suspect a previous owner may have done a repair job and replaced the tube in the chassis. The relay box I have measures 66.60mm diameter (at the bottom) and it's girlfriend in the chassis measures 68.80mm diameter. I expected that from new the steering box would be a firm tap in fit to avoid any movement!
    Anyone have any ideas or have a chassis without the relay box in that they can measure for me please.
    Thanks in anticipation.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    The box is located by being bolted to the two vertical plates welded to the chassis at the top, and by a locating ring bolted to the chassis at the bottom. The clearance between the relay and the tube is irrelevant as long as the unit will fit. There will be slight movement as the chassis twists between the locating ring and the bottom plate of the relay, which will eventually result in significant wear - more if the top locating plates crack, as does happen. In this event the ring and the bottom plate can be replaced in situ.

    The relays tend to rust into place as water finds its way into the top of the tube but has no free exit at the bottom. More clearance would seem to be an advantage - but the more clearance, the more water gets in, and if the locating ring fits properly it can never get out.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    Thanks John,
    the one I am working on has/had a lot of lateral movement at the base when the steering was flexed.
    I assumed that maybe the housing had been replaced and was not up to spec, as the vehicle has had a fair amount of resto work done on it about 15-18 years ago.

    Thanks again,
    Cheers for now,
    Mick
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #4
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    Relay Flex S1

    I also have S1 with similar problems, movement around bottom bolts. Noticed today but not tightened yet.

    I was wondering if a tighten up will restore normality or whether its shot at this stage and not worth persevering with. Can the bottom 'ring' be replaced? When I tried to put oil into relay via 2 adjoining bolts wouldnt take any. Cant believe it was full given how much oil was leaking at bottom. Has grease nipple fitted. Do the units self adjust and take up with use?

    The box mounting bracket also moves/ flexes which I am about to replace with S2 brackets.

    What has worked for you?

    Do I just replace with Later S1 or early S2? Which is preferable?

    Thanks in anticipation.

  5. #5
    Timj is offline Wizard Silver Subscriber
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    Steering Relay Box

    The ring at the bottom can wear oversize and is available to replace. I bought one from FWD in Brisbane. The whole steering relay can be bought new for not much more than $100. The relay I replaced and put a new ring on was loose in the chassis but is held in perfectly by the new ring.

    Cheers,

    TimJ.
    Snowy - 2010 Range Rover Vogue
    Clancy - 1978 Series III SWB Game.
    Henry - 1976 S3 Trayback Ute with 186 Holden
    Gumnut - 1953 Series I 80"
    Poverty - 1958 Series I 88"
    Barney - 1979 S3 GS ex ADF with 300tdi
    Arnie - 1975 710M Pinzgauer

  6. #6
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    I checked and the bottom retaining ring on this one and it measures one millimeter larger in diameter than the base of the relay box, so no wonder it is moving!
    The relay box needs a rebuild and I will get another ring as well and go from there.


    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  7. #7
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is offline RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    I should point out that making an "undersize" locating ring would be a pretty simple turning job - if necessary the bottom plate of the relay can be removed in situ, turned round and a plate made to fit it, although with the cost of new relays, this would seem to be necessary only if you can't remove the relay easily.

    John
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by JDNSW View Post
    The box is located by being bolted to the two vertical plates welded to the chassis at the top, and by a locating ring bolted to the chassis at the bottom. The clearance between the relay and the tube is irrelevant as long as the unit will fit. There will be slight movement as the chassis twists between the locating ring and the bottom plate of the relay, which will eventually result in significant wear - more if the top locating plates crack, as does happen. In this event the ring and the bottom plate can be replaced in situ.

    The relays tend to rust into place as water finds its way into the top of the tube but has no free exit at the bottom. More clearance would seem to be an advantage - but the more clearance, the more water gets in, and if the locating ring fits properly it can never get out.

    John
    Whn I replace relays now I always seal around the top with silicone so no water ever gets in.
    Keith

  9. #9
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    The bottom locating ring is only pressed sheet metal and tends to oversize, the larger tyres make this worse. I have even seen a forward control where the flanges at the top were fractured off the chassis, because of so much movement at the bottom.

    Rather than replacing the pressed rings, I had replacements machined out of 6mm plate to a tolerance fit.

    You can re-build a relay in the chassis if you cant get it out.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    The bottom locating ring is only pressed sheet metal and tends to oversize, the larger tyres make this worse. I have even seen a forward control where the flanges at the top were fractured off the chassis, because of so much movement at the bottom.

    Rather than replacing the pressed rings, I had replacements machined out of 6mm plate to a tolerance fit.

    You can re-build a relay in the chassis if you cant get it out.
    Thanks Diana,
    I had considered turning up a stronger base plate so that it will support the relay housing better.
    The vehicle has had eight inch tyres, a holden motor and no doubt worn and poorly lubricated steering components, so the load on the relay box would have been reasonably large. I have the box out of the chassis so will rebuild it on the bench.

    Thanks again.
    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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