Thread: Rebuilding the 2.25

Looks nice!!! I've been wondering what a rebuilt 2.25P would perform like. My 2.25 is worn out and very slow, I've done the compression test and it's low but I probably wouldn't go quite as far as you did I'd just do rings, valves and maybe bearings cause my budget is quite low for that Landy as the other needs the money to get on the road and the 2.25 is just a farm Ute. What did it cost you all up if you don't mind?

Originally Posted by Series3 GT

Looks nice!!! I've been wondering what a rebuilt 2.25P would perform like. My 2.25 is worn out and very slow, I've done the compression test and it's low but I probably wouldn't go quite as far as you did I'd just do rings, valves and maybe bearings cause my budget is quite low for that Landy as the other needs the money to get on the road and the 2.25 is just a farm Ute. What did it cost you all up if you don't mind?

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thanks heaps for doing that Banjo. that is awesome!

What parts did you need? new rings, lifters?

Originally Posted by Ozdunc

thanks heaps for doing that Banjo. that is awesome!

What parts did you need? new rings, lifters?

Ok brandnew parts are as such

Bearings rod main & cam All 10 tho

New 40 tho rings

All new gaskets & seals

Brandnew full clutch

new carby

new dizzy electronic

new fuel pump

new bellhousing studs & nuts just waiting for then to get here

All new bolts in the rocker gear

new valve seals

new hose & belt kit

Alternator i pulled apart cleaned & checked the brushes

new oil filter & O ring

new thermostat

I cant think of the rest

What would I need to do to be able to use this in a 2a?
It's a 69 with the wide lights, but still with the older style non synchro 1 & 2 gears. It's an A suffix gearbox if that helps.
Is it just a matter of using my flywheel housing and an older style clutch?

Originally Posted by Ozdunc

What would I need to do to be able to use this in a 2a?
It's a 69 with the wide lights, but still with the older style non synchro 1 & 2 gears. It's an A suffix gearbox if that helps.
Is it just a matter of using my flywheel housing and an older style clutch?

It will bolt striagt upto to your gearbox .Any gearbox that had a 4 cylinder on it it will fit.. the differances are in the clutch mechanism & clutch presure plate. I put a brandnew series 3 clutch on the engine as thats what it was out of.. You would need to check what clutch yours has.. Series 2 2a the presure plate has a inbuilt thrust pad on them in the center where the shaft goes threw it.. But being one of the later 2a it may have the series 3 clutch but still have the 2a non syncro in it.. Its only the clutch you have to change..Like i said this engine has been set up timing wise but only static as i dont have a car to put it in to set the timing with the dizzy & also the carby.. I am happy to exchange so i can build another one MAYBE..Also the trolley i built on wheels will go with it I just have to weld one of the wheels back on as these engines are so bloody heavy & my cement is very uneven..I also have'nt tested the alternator But i dont see why it would'nt work as i checked every thing in it when cleaning it..Has new engine mounts , I'm still waiting for the gearbox studs to arrive so i can fit them . also the fuel piping..thought i had some but dont. will get before it sells to anyone..Hope that helps.. Have you got a pic of your clutch ..

Did you "Plastigauge" the main and bigend bearing clearances?? I am glad I did it when I rebuilt my 2.25 20 years ago as there was a dud bearing shell that would have caused issues later.

Garry

Originally Posted by garrycol

Did you "Plastigauge" the main and bigend bearing clearances?? I am glad I did it when I rebuilt my 2.25 20 years ago as there was a dud bearing shell that would have caused issues later.

Garry

Sure did .. Do it on every engine i build..its just like breathing for me.. Can't see the sence in building an engine without doing it..