-
9th August 2013, 10:31 AM
#1
HELP! Series III Petrol killing me
Oh wise ones please help.*2.25 petrol idles great, revs great but take it down the road and in third gear it dies (like running out of fuel).Then it will start and die (like out of fuel) after a couple of revs esp if trying to move forward in first.*So far head gasket, coil, plugs, dizzy and fuel pump and plugs replaced. Seems to be a fuel issue but it used to run fine (so not vapour lock and does it before too hot).
Love some suggestions (the replaced pump seemed fine too).
-
9th August 2013, 10:41 AM
#2
What make of carburettor ?
-
9th August 2013, 10:55 AM
#3
Blocked tank pickup?
Very likely blocking of pickup tube in the tank. If the conical gauze pickup filter is holed or missing something (bits of silastic, berries, spider body, flakes of rust - seen all of them) is sucked against the tube as your fuel demand increases it is sucked hard against the tube and the engine cuts out from fuel starvation. The rubbish drops off, lets the engine start again until the next time the tube is blocked.
Pull out the pickup and check it for damage; drain the tank and have a good look in the tank with a torch particularly for lumps of silastic. Remove the pipe from the pump end and blow back through the fuel line and try to catch anything in the fuel line in a bottle to see if there was anything in the fuel line, also the pickup tube.
Hope this helps, don't use silastic anywhere in the fuel system.
Bob
-
9th August 2013, 11:17 AM
#4
I can suck fuel through to the Zenith 36IV carb. I will check but I don't think it is that, goes like a rocket ship then dies so it is when warm and under load.
Thinking new coil wrong way round(??) or **** in carb...
-
9th August 2013, 11:27 AM
#5
Your float needle valve in the carb could be a rubber-tipped type. As it ages, it forms the same sort of ridge as the older metal needles did, but the rubber can make it stick in the seat. The old metal ones don't stick, but they do leak. In short, put a kit through the carby.
Dan.
69 2A 88" pet4 (still in disguise), 68 2B FC pet6 (still resting quietly), plus 14 other parts/project cars (1xS2, 6xS2As, 7xS3s).
-
9th August 2013, 11:30 AM
#6
Could be something in the carburettor, otherwise replace the condenser - sometimes they just fail and other times do as you say - seem to repair when cooled for a while then off again.
Land Rover 4 cyl MUST have a 12v coil, not one meant to be used with a resistor like Holdens, Valiants etc of the time (starts on 12V and runs on about 7V). Check that (if it says use with resistor). Be very careful if it is a 7V one. If the engine cuts out let it cool for a while as they can burst the top out and spray VERY HOT oil over the engine bay AND YOU IF YOU LIFT THE BONNET AT THE WRONG TIME!!!!
Bob
-
9th August 2013, 11:51 AM
#7
The coil was replaced at the start of problem but it has persisted, so coil seems fine (put nice gold coloured one in that is grunty).
Distributor is new (so not condensor) and before replacing it I put electronic ignition in but still playing up.
I don't know anything about carbs but the guy I bought truck off had just put a kit in and is a mechanic. I could leave carb in place and pull top off...? At least have a look inside.
-
9th August 2013, 12:11 PM
#8
In-line fuel filter needs replacing- even if fairly new.
-
9th August 2013, 12:13 PM
#9
It could be something floating around in the carburettor.
Just for elimination can you try another coil, stranger things have happened with new parts. Was it happening with your original coil or before you fitted the electronic ignition?
Bob
-
9th August 2013, 12:17 PM
#10
Was happening with original coil and before electronic ignition.
Now after sitting for an hour it will fire but cut out. If I can get up drive (200m to go) will replace fuel filter.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
|
Search All the Web!
|
Bookmarks