Thread: Series raiko bush

Hi Will

Yes you probably do need to adjust the preload (remove shims), but you first need make sure that the movement is not something else loose (like the stub axle) or worn wheel bearings.

The important thing to check that the pin is not loose in the Raiko bush and the fibrous bush in the botton of the bush housing is still there and not worn out.

Remove the seal retaining plate and/replace sufficient shims to remove the up/down freeplay and get the correct pre-load. You usually remove the same amount of shim from both top and bottom.

N.B: Remember when removing shims, the large seal on the chrome ball needs to be centred. To check with retaining plate still off and the swivel in the straight ahead position, see that the seal offers up evenly top and bottom. If you have to press harder on the top to make the seal seat, then you have to move shims from the bottom to the top. If you need more pressure at the bottom to seat the seal, then you need to move shim from the top to the bottom. Then re-check seal centering and pre-load.

Always check pre-load with the tie rods disconnected and the seal removed.

Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Remove the seal retaining plate and/replace sufficient shims to remove the up/down freeplay and get the correct pre-load. You usually remove the same amount of shim from both top and bottom.

N.B: Remember when removing shims, the large seal on the chrome ball needs to be centred. To check with retaining plate still off and the swivel in the straight ahead position, see that the seal offers up evenly top and bottom. If you have to press harder on the top to make the seal seat, then you have to move shims from the bottom to the top. If you need more pressure at the bottom to seat the seal, then you need to move shim from the top to the bottom. Then re-check seal centering and pre-load.


Diana

Diana, my S3 manual says that the equalising of shims is not required although what you have described is exactly what I did on my S1.

In the S3 manual the last task is to centre the seal by loosening the retaining bolts and ensuring that the seal wipes the entire surface of the swivel housing; the seal can be moved to facilitate this.

I found this hard to believe when I did it on my S3, but it appears to have worked with no oil leaking from the swivel,

Cheers Charlie

Hi Chazza

I have at least I swivel housing on a SIIB that requires no shims on the bottom to seat the seal correctly. However with so many pattern parts and re-chromed balls the few minutes extra work to check and adjust the centering I consider time well spent, if it reduces the possibility subsequent leaks.

It's the same as applying some sealant to the back side of the seal/retaining plate, the manual doesn't mention it but again reduces the chance of oil bypassing the seal and causing a leak.

Diana

Hi Diana
Thank you for the advise. I took 2 shims from the top and it feels good and firm but stills turns freely. There doesn't appear to be any shims on the bottom.Is the bush and king pin slightly tapered? The king pin has a few marks and a bit of rust so will replace at some time.I just want to get it on the road.
Cheers Will

The railko pin is parrallel sided, what usually wears in the disk in the bottom, but if the pin is sloppy (side to side) in the bush then it should be replaced.

The bearing at the bottom is a tapered roller bearing.