Thread: S111 where to look for rust

spots to check for rust-anything steel.
The bottom part of the door frame is very common as is the bottom section of the door top.
footwells are quite common for rust and can be easy I suppose
the top of the firewall is quite prone as well as the bottom and side of the firewall.
The 2 most common parts in the chassis is the front where the bumper bar attaches on and the rear cross member.
The bonnet frame is also quite likely to have rust as well.

Since we don't know on the planet where you live all answers can change

As for rusting out foot wells not a problem, we have fixed many

Look for rust , everywhere, it is a series after all.

Mrs hh

Hi, sorry I live in Perth. Car I checked out was a S111 SWB motor and driveline seemed good. I'm a bit worried aabout how hard it is to remove parts to changeout rusty areas. I intend on using the vehicle offroad on some trips into desert areas. How reliable is the original petrol motor. Sorry for the questions but I'm a newby to trying to fix cars.
Cheers

Originally Posted by Saron

Hi, sorry I'm a bit worried aabout how hard it is to remove parts to changeout rusty areas. I intend on using the vehicle offroad on some trips into desert areas. How reliable is the original petrol motor. Sorry for the questions but I'm a newby to trying to fix cars.
Cheers

A Series 3 is a very easy car to work on with most tasks, mechanical and body, able to be accomplished with out the need for special tools.

The original engine is an excellent one, although fuel consumption can be a bit alarming for someone new to them. However; like most engines, it is only reliable if it is in good condition and well-maintained. Don't set off on long trips unless you have had heaps of time driving it locally, to get to know the car. If it can survive a 40 degree day in Perth traffic, it will be OK on country roads.

If you are new to fixing cars then buy the original Land Rover workshop manual and parts book, which will explain 99% of what you need to know - avoid other brands of manual. If you google "Land Rover parts and manual" you will find suppliers throughout the World; the UK ones seem to be the cheapest and those who cater most for S3.

Before buying, crawl under the car in your worst clothes and stab every steel panel with a thin screwdriver, to see if it really is steel, or rust covered in paint.

If you read the three Series forums on AULRO frequently, you will soon discover who lives in Perth and it would make sense to contact the chaps and see if you can visit them or talk to them about what to look for.

Have fun and good luck - feel free to PM me anytime,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by Saron

Car I checked out was a S111 SWB motor and driveline seemed good. I'm a bit worried aabout how hard it is to remove parts to changeout rusty areas. I intend on using the vehicle offroad on some trips into desert areas. How reliable is the original petrol motor. Sorry for the questions but I'm a newby to trying to fix cars.
Cheers

Hello from Brisbane.

When I read your original post I thought - OK, sounds like a lot of us. Interest in Series Land Rovers, found one that might be OK to poke about with, not too confident on mechaning but happy to have a go.

However, and here I risk getting shot by the true believers, your second post sent off a few alarm bells.

Basically, if I have it right you are looking at a vehicle that must be somewhere between 30 and 40 years of age, in what sounds like not too great a condition and would like to take it to some desert areas with rudimentary mechanical skills. I'm not too sure that this is a fantastic idea, although the nature of the desert travel and how many resources you are willing to put into the truck is not specified.

The old Land Rovers are fairly forgiving of poor treatment and amateur mechanics, but they have their limits and hot, tough terrain is a master for identifying those limits. For what it's worth most adventurers in the UK and Africa consider the Series trucks to be beyond their effective age for overland travel - although London to Cape Town is a bit more involved than a weekend run in the Big Desert. Defenders are now considered to be the bottom line and even then newer is considered better than older.

It really comes down to motivations, skills and budgets, I guess. For my money I suspect you may be looking at the wrong truck for all the right reasons.

I am aware of the fact that a lot of Aulro members are driving their Series trucks (including Series 1) through all kinds of deserts etc - but my take on it is that the trucks were fairly good, had been worked over pretty well, and the owners had good mechanical skills.

Now for the criticism......

Cheers,

Cheers, I am picking up Landy on Monday, S3ute you bring up valid points regarding my posts. I have worked on vehicles before but of the two wheel version. I intend on joining local LR club to get experience on this vehicle and gain info of people like yourself from this site. Hopefully when I get the old girl sorted I will venture off into the desert. The vehicle has been getting restored for the last 7 years, member from this sites car. Once I purchase, I will post pics. Any feedback is good.
Cheers Ron

Hi, after thorough check of chassis there is rust in crossmember. Previous owner has plated already. Can anyone advise on where I can purchase new crossmember which includes chassis rails that go past leaf plates. I have checked out prices uk but I think freight would kill price. I'm also after floor footwells.
Cheers
Ron