It start no problem like it should
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It start no problem like it should
I've been researching and now thinking the lift pump might be at fault?
The Left Hand Indicator stalk when mastered is the crowning of a true Land Rover Driver.
I use to have that Left Hand indicator stalk problem and I fixed that by selling our perfectly good AU Falcon. :p
When I was confronted with a tractor with the problems you have described, I decided that it was rubbish blocking the fuel lines somewhere, then tackled it by removing the tank and with a couple of litres of fuel in it, agitated the tank sloshing the fuel around inside, then dumped the lot out of the filler, this carried out a lot of rubbish that would have continued to give grief.
After replacing the tank, I changed the fuel filters cleaning their sedimentor bowls at the same time, replacing the filters sealing rings as well and then the fuel pump as it had been drawing hard, the higher vacuum would have created a fair bit of additional strain for the pump's diaphragm and being old could have developed cracks. Before I fitted the fuel lines I made sure they were clear also by blowing back through them with compressed air.
To get a diesel tractor engine running again after it's lines are full of air, it's best to begin at the tank; put plenty of fuel in, then flush briefly at the tanks outlet or by removing the glass bowl of the sedimentor if fitted, then go to the first filter undoing the bleeder ( usually the topmost fitting ), watch the flow of diesel until the bubbles of air stop, repeat for the second filter.
This leaves the injector pump to be bled, on a CAV style rotary pump, there is two bleeders points, using the hand lever on the fuel pump open both of them and watch the flow of diesel until the air bubbles finish and the diesel flow is clear.
To get the injector pump, pumping! there is still air in the injector lines, to purge these, crack at least one or all of them in turn and spin the engine over with the starter motor until you see fuel spray from the cracked joint and tighten that joint up while the starter is operating, at this stage the engine should be very close to being able to fire on that injector, repeat this along each of the injectors and you will find the engine will start and run at some point most likely before you have had a chance to do all of the injector and if it's missing it will come right as soon as the cracked injector lines are nipped up.
Then go and read the riot act to the goose that filled the tank up from a drum with dirty fuel with out using a filter in the fuel funnel.
To check your fuel cut-out solenoid on a 300TDi, simply turn the ignition key to the run position and go to the back of the injector pump and find the wire going to the fuel cut-off solenoid, then gripping the spade lug fitting ( not the wire only ), pull the spade fitting off it's lug, then touch the two back together, listen that the solenoid is making a clicking noise as you make and break that contact, if all is good replace the fitting and test where the wire goes into the fitting for a good crimp by gently, wiggling and a bit of a push 'n pull.
The sedimentor for a 300 TDi is up under the floor in front of the rear axle and I think it's the same for a 200 TDi.
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The left hand indicator is a a normal thing in Europe even Toyotas, Mazda, Honda , Hyundai's all of them have it. It just seems to me that Australia is a bit behind with it
After all the Ford Mondeo sold here has a left hand indicator. Along with many other euro cars sold here.
It is not land rover that is backward with the left hand indicator but Australia cars that are backward with the right hand indicator.
The biggest gripe I have with left hand indicator storks is, when I have been working on the Defender and inadvertently bumped the right hand stork on, which containing the controls to the wipers.
The next time the ignition is turned on the wipers make a pass over the dusty windscreen.
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Sorry to change the subject a bit but talking about defenders , one of the funniest lines I have seen in an Aussie 4x4 mag was when they said that the Defender did not have any modern technical stuff for telling you left your lights on. They just put the light switch above the ignition so you have to turn off the lights to get the keys out.
Replaced the diesel pump today but it didn't help, and I have a good feeling that it is air getting in somewhere. When I rev it up it must be sucking in air and when I turn it off the air must escape and then I turn it on and it's good again until it starts sucking in air when I rev it?