Thread: S111 2.25 petrol breaks down on acceleration.

Very hard to tell without seeing the engine, but this might be useful to you.
1. Remove the air-cleaner with the engine off and operate the throttle by hand, whilst looking down the throat. You should see a stream of fuel being pumped into the venturi - if you don't, it is probably a fuel pump; delivery pipe, or carburettor problem.

2. If the fuel is OK, check the ignition system starting at the spark plugs. Crank the engine with help of an assistant, with the plugs connected and lying on the rocker cover in a darkish place. The sparks should be strong and blue. If they are weak, or tending towards yellowish, the ignition system needs revisiting again.

Things that can cause the symptoms you mention:
* A bit of plastic or muck, partially blocking the fuel pick-up pipe in the tank.
* Blocked jets in the carburettor. See if runs with the choke on.
* Fuel volume at float bowl insufficient.
* Poor spark, which can be caused by anything in the ignition system.

My bet is on fuel, but it is only a guess,

Cheers Charlie

Originally Posted by Saron

Hi,

Prior to this happening I filled he tank.

Car was running fine at idle, but still bogging down under throttle.

Morning tea after-thoughts:

Was the fresh-fuel contaminated? Check the quality by pumping some into a clear jar and looking especially for water. It isn't diesolene is it?

Check the vacuum-advance diaphragm and pipe, which will cause poor acceleration off idle but shouldn't make it too hard to start; however; if it is a biggish air leak it will cause unstable idle,

Cheers Charlie

Sounds to me like weak spark. Last time I had this it was coil, but there are a number of other problems that can cause the same symptoms.

John

Hi,
Cheers for the help.
Today checked timing by doing the following.
Mark on pulley and motor.
Pulled dizzy out put back in.
Still wouldn't start.
Check plugs, black color
Cleaned points
Changed leads/ dizzy cap
Car would start but cut out.
After all this changed coil (this coil was changed out before as i thought it was dodgy)and the bloody car starts.
Took the car for test drive still missing on acceleration but starts no worries.
The saga continues.
Cheers

Sounds like the coil you put in may be dodgy, but not as dodgy as the one you took out. Also check the high tension leads and, for that matter, the low tension wires that you may have disturbed changing the coil.

John

Hi, replaced coil with one from Repco.
Car had no worries on way home.
Now why could the car be going thru coils.
One suggestion was bad earth?.
Cheers for the help.
Also does anyone know where I can get genuine throttle arm linkage from carby to throttle assembly. I have seen plastic arms only.
Cheers Ron

Hi Ron,

Is the coil perhaps one designed to be used with a ballast resistor? Most of the 2.25 engines did not use a ballast resistor with their coils so if you use the wrong coil it will cause it to overheat and fail.

Throttle linkage parts are probably easiest from a wreck but they can also be found in the UK from the parts suppliers over there.

Cheers,

TimJ.

As Timj said about coils. The only thing apart from using the wrong coil that wilkl cause the 2.25 to go through coils is leaving the ignition on while not running for long periods.

But two is not "running through coils". One possibly lasted thirty years, and the replacement was a dud!

John

P.S. No 2.25 engines had ballast coils from the factory.

John