In practice, spring travel is limited by the shock absorbers and check straps if fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter O
John
Printable View
In practice, spring travel is limited by the shock absorbers and check straps if fitted.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter O
John
I checked the shock length andI reckon it would top out. The car did not have straps fitted so I might have to fit some. I would like to make thee most of the travel available so I will fit longer hoses and maybe longer shock.
When I made the last post I had not thought about the fact that that is the front - no check straps there. As far as I know, the check straps are only to protect the shocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter O
John
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDNSW
John
I have pulled the top out of shockers before and thought something like what I have used in the off road cars would work. With front and rear lockers I am guessing the Bunyip will get to stretch its legs occasionally.
I don't know if it shows all that well as its difficult to get a camera in there but there is a strap running on the shocker bolts like the one in the second picture.
I can order these to length from the states and they are cheap insurance against a broken shock in the bush. They do stretch slightly so I order them about 30mm short of the max length of the shockers I fit them with.
I've been using these:
4WD1.com - Land Rover Series I, II & III Shock Absorbers, Suspension & Accessories
The bottom item on the page - 41mm tough dog hd shocks. Series 3 109 - front trutrac - rear sals w/Detroit locker. I 4x4 pretty slowly but I do not run check straps or any limiting device, and i've had the shocks bottom pretty regularly, hanging wheels up allover the place! It's great fun. (especially if you can find a spot to get 2 wheels hanging!) I've never run into trouble with busting shocks, but like I said I 4x4 pretty slowly.
I have been very slack on the Bunyip of late but I did get a bit of time this weekend to start to strip the many layers of paint off the tub and found a few surprises.
I knew there was a section riveted into to off side rear quarter but after stripping the paint of the front section between the wheel and the door I found a sheet of steel riveted over the dented panel.
Starting to think another tub would save a lot of work but I will strip the rest and see just how bad things are.
First picture is the aluminium riveted in repair, next is the steel bit and the last is what was underneath.
Not an unusual type of repair - thirty years ago few panelbeaters would have had alloy readily available. The first Series 2 I owned I had had for about a year when I found that the skin of the driver's door was magnetic! Whoever fitted it had done a good job of bending galvanised steel to shape, as far as I could tell there was no filler used.
Should be good condition tubs about if you can find one. (Series 2/2a/3 are interchangeable.)
John
I took your advise John and bought a tub off Ebay. I will go get it from Melbourne next weekend if all goes according to plan.
I have used an extraordinary amount of paint stripper getting down to bare metal on some of the panels and doors but I have a long way to go yet.
I managed to get to the Gal place again and picked up some more bits. I will have one more lot for them to do before I am ready to start putting bits back together.
Just more sanding and stripping paint today.
I need to find a double V belt balancer pulley for the engine, are these available or will I have to have something made up to fit.