Gilbert

Hi.
Just wondering if any other chassis mods, members wished they had done, when they had the chance.
Is it worth adding a second LH fuel tank Bracket ?
will the standard seat box, with Its compartment still fit ?
I know it will have to be cut out and removed, when fitting LH fuel tank,
How would you add the larger tank to the RH side ? simply remove front bracket and hang off bulkhead outrigger ????
What about brackets under Tub, to fit larger Tank ????
Anyone fitted a second battery tray ?
Thanks for all the input and comments.


whitehillbilly

Two new tyres 7.50x16 tyres fitted to silver painted Gal dipped rims.
One is slightly bent, didn't know until put on machine, so will see how true the one I was going to use as the spare, is.
Or I run it on the rear, Owner of tyre place did say, would never get the series 3 over 40klms, so wont notice the runout, if on the front,
then laughed his head off.
Pics to follow.

whitehillbilly

Check out my betsy build early on. I welded fuel tank brackets on for twin 16 gallon tanks. If you do this you need to remove the box under the passenger seat so it fits height wise. Some tanks have the filler on top of the tank and most have it in the usual position which means u need to add the second filler neck to the left. Should bring fuel capacity up to 32 gallons or about 150 litres.
I also added a square front tow hitch point for recovery or parking trailers or caravans etc. and a square point in the rear x member for a tow hitch or recovery point. My front point still allows me to use the crank handle if i need too, though cranking a diesel would be a bit hard i think...lol.


Cheers Rod

Quote:

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Originally Posted by 67hardtop

.... though cranking a diesel would be a bit hard i think...lol.


Cheers Rod

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It is, but still useful for setting tappets etc.

Feel free to abuse me for the following post. Sure the purist wont be happy[bigwhistle]

Every Time I look at my 67 series 11A, parked near my shed, I love the open Bulkhead.
I think now a few years down the track, would have restored a S11/S11A
Being around 6ft I always feel a bit 'Cramped' in my other S3 when driving it around my small property.
The two shelves in the S11 seems very useful, along with the apparent extra room, or an illusion !
A lot of worked is needed for my S3 Dash panels and heater box.
So, what extra bits would I need, IF I were to put in a S11 bulkhead in Gilbert.
Are the 2 vent flaps and opening handles the same S11/S3 ?
I know I will loose the heater box, and the wiper motors are separate units attached to the windscreen
Same steering box ? what extra brackets on the column ? Different steering wheel and indicator unit.
Different windscreen, but have one with shark tooth for soft top fitted.
It will be my daily driver I intend to keep, so a series bitsa is not a problem, built as an S11A.
Marshals Garage, Burringbah, may have the extra bits needed, few scrap S11's in Yard, if not floated away in recent flood.
Please give your honest opinion, with pro's and con's
Thanks

whitehillbilly

Thanks Rod.
would love to add the rear square section, removable, tow hitch.
Couldn't see how you had don't it in Betsy's posts.
Any pics please.
I was thinking of using an angle plate, and three threaded holes, under the rear cross arm, with the lower rear cross arm hitch fixing bolts.
Then some flat bar from chassis mount to hitch area as per military series, hitch upgrade.
or just remove tow ball from original plate and weld square section to it ????
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

Converting a Series 3 to a Series 2/a lookalike is technically quite feasible - basically replace the bulkhead and (almost) everything that bolts to it. The instruments can be used in the (post 67) S2/a dash panel, retaining the S3 speedo cable, but a S2a wiring harness with a few mods would be needed. You would need to find a 2/2a heater and demisters, and a turn indicator switch, and fit a foot dip switch. Door checks would need to be modified, but not a major job.

Legally, it depends on the date of your chassis. The padded dash is probably required to meet some of the ADRs after 1973 - need to investigate this. You would probably get away with it, as you are unlikely to hit an inspector or policeman knowledgeable enough to spot the errors!

And then there are the purists, who would be offended by the modifications - and it would certainly reduce the value, everything else being equal.

If you're planning on registering it, just check to see if the removal of the heater and 2 speed wipers will be an issue as there are later ADR's to comply with on a series 3. Not saying it can't be done or what you may need to add or change to make it compliant - just putting it out there it may cause a few more issues come rego time.

And yes, the 2a does look better than a 3, so quite a good idea if you have everything lying around or easy access to them. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by whitehillbilly64

Thanks Rod.
would love to add the rear square section, removable, tow hitch.
Couldn't see how you had don't it in Betsy's posts.
Any pics please.
I was thinking of using an angle plate, and three threaded holes, under the rear cross arm, with the lower rear cross arm hitch fixing bolts.
Then some flat bar from chassis mount to hitch area as per military series, hitch upgrade.
or just remove tow ball from original plate and weld square section to it ????
Thanks.

whitehillbilly

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I have a non standard square removable tow hitch fitted by persons unknown sometime in the last 50 years on my 2a I'm freshening up

its a neat job and I will try and retain it ,will take some photos as rear tub is off and it is plainly seen.

will post some pictures here tomorrow evening"..........enjoying and learning from your endeavours as I have rust eradication to address soon

cheers Paul

As always, Thanks John.
Just thinking out loud.
Purists, often show what they have, not use what they've got.
My restorations, tractors, bikes or 4x4's look good for that one photo, then used for the purpose built.
I want a simple land rover.
The S11A dash looks simple to the S3 one

Whitehillbilly