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Thread: Post Purchase, Pre trip things to check

  1. #1
    Woodleigh Guest

    Post Purchase, Pre trip things to check

    Hi,

    I recently purchased a SIII hardtop with Holden 202 conversion.
    Upon collecting it I drove 2.5 hrs home, and have had a few short commutes since. Everything has been fine.

    In about 6 weeks i plan to accompany my daughter to her yr12 geology excursion to the Flinders Ranges in SA, and am looking for anything recommended by membrs to check, which someone new to Series Landies may not otherwise know.

    I have pulled the radiator and dropped off for recoring as there was a slight overheating issue i couldnt fix with a flush and new coolant and some of the crap that came out of the radiator indcated a better than fair chance of a good deal of blockage.

    The SIII has spent (from what i can determine) a great deal, if not all of its life on a small sheep property and was on primary producer reg when i got it, so i have no real idea if the 72 k on the clock is original but i would doubt if it has done more than one trip around the clock to 172k.

    I have done a good clean undeneath and plan to do a full grease and lube, and have time to do a couple of 3-4hr treks to the Coorong NP and give the 4wd and overdrive a run , but is there any other series III nuances I should check before heading off (or recommended spares/special tools).

    Any advice will be much appreciated.

    Mick

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    45
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    Hi Mick!
    Welcome to the Series' Life!
    If the car is worth keeping for life I would personally suggest to outsource an original 2.25 petrol engine which aren't quick but they are made to last! (or a diesel if you fancy it, If I could I would!)

    When I bought my Series I drove her without a check for the whole 500+km from Armidale to Sydney and a total of 10hrs without ever turning her off!

    Once we got back I went to the mechanic for the following:

    CHECK COLD START: HARD TO START WHEN TEMPERATURE IS LOW (Bondi low temperatures despite brand new battery)
    CHECK : CHOKE SYSTEM, IS IT WORKING AND CONNECTED TO CARBURETOR?
    CHECK :? STARTER MOTOR SOLENOID
    CHECK - NEGATIVE GROUND CABLE IS LOOSE AND/OR RUSTED
    CHECK - IGNITION COIL – DOES IT SEND ELECTRICITY TO ALL OF THE SPARK PLUGS EQUALLY? MAYBE HAS TO BE REPLACED?
    CHECK - IGNITION WIRES
    CHECK - ALTERNATOR, IS ENOUGH POWER GOING BACK TO THE BATTERY? HAS TO BE CHANGED?
    CHECK - CARBURETOR. IS IT WORTH CLEANING IT? OVERHAUL IT?
    CHECK - BRAKE FLUID + BRAKE PUMP + BRAKES (NOT VERY POWERFUL)
    CHECK - SEALS ON THE AXLES
    CHECK - TRANSMISSION OIL, METALLIC SOUND (even) WHEN RUNNING IN 4TH GEAR AT 60KM/H, MAYBE LOW OIL LEVEL.

    CHECK - WHITE SMOKE WHEN IDLING AND STARTING BUT THEN IT GOES AWAY WHEN RUNNING
    CLEAN - AIR FILTER + REPLACE AIR FILTER OIL
    CHANGE - SPARK PLUGS
    CHANGE: DISTRIBUTOR CAP, IGNITION POINTS , CONDENSER (AND CABLES TO NEW SPARK PLUGS)
    CHANGE - RADIATOR HOSES + FAN BELT (supplied)
    CHANGE - RADIATOR LIQUID + FLUSH ENTIRE SYSTEM TO GIVE IT A CLEAN
    CHANGE - OIL FILTER (supplied)
    CHANGE - OIL SUMP SEAL (WASHER) supplied
    CHANGE - ENGINE OIL
    CHANGE/CHECK - DIFFERENTIAL OIL (X 2)
    GREASE - STEERING SWIVEL JOINTS
    GREASE - BALL JOINTS + IN EVERY OTHER GREASE INJECTION POINTS

    I guess you could browse Ebay for a day and if you are a mechanically minded person you can buy as much as you can afford and then go to the mechanic with a clear list of what you want to be done.

    Holden Engines are great but the only issue with them is that the car may lose its soul and it won't be a Landie anymore...

    Let me know how it goes but rest assured once you check the above list you may be fine for a while!

    ciao

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Acacia Ridge, QLD
    Posts
    582
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    Hubs, hubs

    Hi Mick,

    I'm a bit of a broken record on this subject, but here goes.
    get to know your wheel hubs.

    Open up a couple up yourself if you can, and check the bearings, and seals.

    Re grease them/ refill them etc, learn how to adjust them, as long as your wheels are working there's hope, you can be towed. If you have bearing failure and damage the stub axle you're in strife, you need a tilt truck. Not many of those in the ranges

    I carry a small plastic tool box dedicated to my hubs, enough for one complete wheel hub overhaul.

    Bearings, Pre-grease wrapped in gladwrap, and Alfoil put back in original box.
    seals
    old ground down outer bearing race for fitting new bearings and seals.
    Punch for removing same.
    Locking washers and adjusting nuts, nut spanner.
    Small tub of bearing grease, (even tough my hubs are oil filled)
    RTV Blue one tube.

    On long trips I carry a spare stub axle as well.

    have fun

    simmo
    95 300Tdi Defender wagon

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,073
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    Hi Mick,

    I would check and carry spare:
    a set of points and a condenser,
    fan belt,
    coolant
    engine oil.

    Check, clean and adjust brakes
    Check tyre pressures

    Enjoy it!

    Regards,
    Phil B

    Custodian of:
    1974 S3 swb wagon (sold)
    1978 S3 swb canvas
    48 749 '88 4x4 Perentie
    1985 County with 4BD1T

  5. #5
    Woodleigh Guest
    Phil, Simmo, Andrea,

    Thanks, this is awesome, more than enough to keep me busy (and slightly paranoid &#128540 for the few weeks I have left before trip.

    Ok so wheel hubs sound like they may be my number one starting point (and my least favourite vehicle maintenance task). Some of the general engine/ ignition items I did plan to do in any case.

    On the Holden engine Andrea, I was also thinking that when I was shopping but a quick bit of research on power and torque figures and I was happy to become a soulless pretender 😀 (Although I will be earning some self cred points by doing the trip sans door tops). Plus , every sprint and repco store have almost anything I could need engine wise and I'm a lot more at home having worked on and rebuilt Holden engines before.

    Cheers Again for great replies.
    Mick

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    Acacia Ridge, QLD
    Posts
    582
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    Thumbs up holden 202

    Mick, It might be a bit controversial to say so, but the Holden 186/202 is the motor land rover should have installed in the Australian LR cars IMV.

    It's bullet proof, economical to run, parts can be had anywhere, they have a history of running incredible mileages if maintained well. If your car has a well sorted installation, provided you manage the torque, by using 4 wd and etc when you should to spread the torque. ( or upgrade the axles, carry spares).
    A well maintained 202 will allow you peace of mind, and more time to look after the other bits.

    simmo
    95 300Tdi Defender wagon

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Irymple, Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    2,902
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    If it does not already have one fit a Bosch HEI distributor and carry a spare module or, carry the original dizzy (and coil) as a spare.
    Consider fitting an electric thermo fan if it still runs (too) warm after you have the radiator reconditioned. Otherwise knock up a fan shroud to ensure cooling efficiency as the fan on a Holden motor is situated a lot lower than on a Land Rover engine.

    Happy Land Rovering.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

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