Thread: Series 3 brake light switch

Not sure if your s3 has the same switch as my s2a, but I had the same problem. Finally gave in and got a switch rigged up to work when the pedal is pushed and fitted it under the dash at the top of the brake pedal, no more stuffing around and it just works.

skip the tower mounted one and grab the old school version of it that resides in a plate that mounts in front of the pedal off of the two bolts closest to the dash that hold the tower in place.

they last much longer. they last even longer when you set them up to drive a relay to drive the lights and then when you go the next step you mod the bracket so you can use an even cheaper door open switch those things last ages and can be had for as little as $3

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

skip the tower mounted one and grab the old school version of it that resides in a plate that mounts in front of the pedal off of the two bolts closest to the dash that hold the tower in place.

they last much longer. they last even longer when you set them up to drive a relay to drive the lights and then when you go the next step you mod the bracket so you can use an even cheaper door open switch those things last ages and can be had for as little as $3

Rod - Dave- Harry -
You've saved me lots of typing. I have a Series 2A, and back and forth adjusting the brass switch atop the brake box under the bonnet. Either the brake lights stay on, or they come on and remain on when come off the brakes, or they don't go on until I brake to the floor. Okay that was a lot of typing.

I want to install a proper switch at the pedal, and I ordered the Lucas part (I think its right- white plastic), but now I need the bracket. Any suggestions or advice? Where can I get this bracket, andis there a part number for it? What about the actual brake light switch under the bonnet? Is there something I can do with the little metal plate activator under the switch button?

Thanks!
Mike

The major advantage of the S2a one worked by the pedal itself is that there is a lot more movement there, so adjustment is much less critical. It does have the drawback that the installation is more vulnerable to big boots, although it should have a protector plate that makes it fairly safe. But the switch is still made by Lucas, and can be expected to disintegrate every ten years or so.

I need a brake switch that works , and a pedal mounted switch so that when I press the pedal the Electric Regenerative braking comes on with the brake lights (via a relay) , push a little harder & the hydraulics come on. So the brake switch needs to be reliable .

I went through 2 so called Genuine Lucas whilst it was still petrol & then the day before my VASS test the switch failed so in desperation bought the only switch the local Auto Elec had , a Nissan Navara I believe . soldered to Lucas threaded end , been on 5000km now and works like a charm .

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The major advantage of the S2a one worked by the pedal itself is that there is a lot more movement there, so adjustment is much less critical. It does have the drawback that the installation is more vulnerable to big boots, although it should have a protector plate that makes it fairly safe. But the switch is still made by Lucas, and can be expected to disintegrate every ten years or so.

Apart from big boots, the other drawback is you will need to run the wire through the firewall, so another hole/grommet etc :-)

Cheers,
John

My firewall has lots of unused holes - now filled with blank rubber grommets (which has made the cab much more sociable!).