Thread: Diesel Running Rough

fresh fuel and fresh filters along with a dose of snot killer would be my opening bits along with some good hard use.

Whilst the tank is out put a piece of chain in the tank with a litre of diesel. Slosh for a while then rinse out. A super expensive auto disposable $2fuel filter is a good investment. Don't touch the injector pump yet

Hello Dark
I was caught out in the same way. I changed all the filters, or so I thought until I found a finger-filter at the bottom of the pick-up pipe in the fuel tank. It was a quick fix to take it out, and wash it clean. The engine works fine now - well, once it's started on these cold mornings...!

It didn't not so much run rough, as simply stop now and then for a few minutes, sulk and then work ok for a bit. When it was about to stop, the idle revs would increase a bit just before the motor conked out.

I seem to be sharing all my embarrassing moments recently..

Cheers, Cerise.

I tightened up all the accelerator linkages ahead of ordering the filter elements/ oil filter element etc and it started better. I failed to mention that once started if I increased the hand throttle it ran better. I usually give it 10 seconds + on the glow plugs and then foot right down to the ground on the gas and its always started OK. Recently its been coughing a bit but its always run. I'll still do the fuel filter/ oil filter etc. Thanks for the heads up on the tank filter. It looked ok but I haven't removed it completely from the tank. I need to source a "new" tank as the sender which isn't sending anything is inaccessible unless you remove the seat base! Having begun a good clean up I notice I have a welded together gear stick - its broken off right at the ball at some point in the past. One other thing. When you drain the sedimenter and filter - do you disconnect the line in first?
cheers,
D

I had a similar issue with a farm SIII 2.25 diesel about six months ago. I replaced the fuel lift pump (not expensive) and it made a huge difference.

Oh yes, are you getting any little diesel stains on the ground? I've found one loose banjo on the left side of the injector pump about 18 months ago...warning, do not take it out, just tighten it up if it is loose! It has little drillings for calibrated balls and springs in it, and I was lucky to get it back together again

About a month ago, I started to get diesel skid marks under the engine again. I found it came from a loose plate half way done the rear of the injector pump, held in place by 2 small bolts. A quick tighten fixed that problem too.

I've been wondering about my lift pump too, but so far I've found that my problems have come from elsewhere. I note the petrol and the diesel lift pumps are different, but I've no idea why.

Changing the big diesel cartridge filter; unscrew the bolt in the top centre, and be ready to catch the bottom as it comes away. The black,square section seals at the top and the bottom of the replacement filter are slightly different sizes, I think the top is bigger . You will curse if you put the wrong one in the wrong place!

I've never needed to loosen or remove a line to a sedimenter or a filter when cleaning them, the long bolt in the top centre loosens and then releases the bottom plate. I've been told that if the drain plug on the sedimenter can be loosened, then that's all you need to check for water. I don't bother normally because if there is any water, I'd see it in the glass filter bowl. ( I've never seen water in Australian diesel anyway)

Do let us know if you find your problem lies elsewhere, I'll be interested!

Cheers, Cerise.

Just a thought at this time of the year and good cold you could have a wax problem . Forms like a sago sludge and blocks alll types of filters resulting in reduced power and rough running. When replacing cartridge filters fill with fuel before screwing on helps

Originally Posted by Dark61

................ Having begun a good clean up I notice I have a welded together gear stick - its broken off right at the ball at some point in the past. .......
D

That is a very common situation with Series gearlevers. I have about four sticks here, and I think only one has not had similar repairs. You can reduce the probability of it breaking by dusting the ball with graphite every year or so (oil or grease just holds dust and makes it stickier) when it gets a bit hard to move. If the ball is already covered with a sticky mix of grease and dust, it is not an enormous job to take the whole lot off and disassemble and clean it.

John