Thread: series 2 gearbox fit a series 3?

swapping the gearbox in is the easy bit.

clutch actuation setup is different, if you got from a 6 pot to a 4 pot the bell housing is different but interchangable for series 2 to series 3 box although there is a suffix catch that means you need to change/sleeve a bearing on the front of the box (bolt pattern changes on the bell housing from 6 to 4 and the clutch actuation from series 2 to series 3 so theres 4 different bell housings)

theres also a different gear lever for some configurations. but thats cross boltable.

the tcase position doesnt change so the gearbox is a drop in mount up

Thanks for the info, the series 2 box will b attached to a spare diesel 4 pot I have and once it all lines up I plan to remove the current engine (6 pot) and box to work on while I run about with the donner diesel and series 2 box.
as such the 2.25 will need flywheel and clutch (doesn't have any now) so I have a clean slate as to how the engine and box go together.
I was unsure if there was a massive difference between the series 2 and 3 boxes that would bring out the beast in me while trying to either fit it together (its always that last efing bolt!) Or with the operating of the two (for some reason they decided to run the gears backwards to the last model).
As you can tell I am learning the landy way as I go with my first LR.

Actually what Dave pointed out will cause you problems. The clutch on the series two is different in a couple of ways, one that the pressure plate has a different centre (and possibly is a different diameter but not absolutely sure about that) and the other that it is actuated differently. It works from the opposite side of the bell housing and twists a rod rather than pushing a lever. The slave cylinder is different in order to do this. So unless you can change the bell housing to a series three 4 cylinder you will have some work to do.

Cheers,

TimJ.