Thread: Brake Lines

If you have a flaring tool you can buy the steel tubing & tube nuts and make your own. If you haven't then you have to buy a ready made tube the same length (but obviously make a neater job of mounting it !).

Here are the lines on my Series I




Colin

Thanks Colin - so, much more of a direct route.
I'll look into the flaring tool.
cheers,
D

On my S3 there's a couple of brackets - one on each side near the springs - that have a couple of p clamps on each that helps keep things secure near the wheels, but I don't think it's actually nessesary - the way Colin has done it looks neater IMO.

Yep, as per Colin's comments, it is pretty easy to get some line and a flaring tool to make some new bits of line (mind you, gotta be careful to get it all right) and fix the whole shebang neatly where it is exposed as little as possible.

I recently did mine, got a flaring tool from autobarn, i know i know, but best tool i have ever used. its the plier style ones not the block and wing nut. does a perfect job every time.

I took a leaking pipe to my mechanic today.
He will use the same, good fittings, as then we know they are correct.
He has pipe, bender and flaring tool. Also a blue slip inspector, so has the correct pipe.
He said call in one afternoon and he will show me how to do it.
It will cost me only the pipe.
Saw a good idea once, have a pic somewhere using a cable tie and small piece of tube to hold pipes/electrical fittings secure, away from axle/chassis.
Can I explain ?
Cable tie goes through the tube, around the brake line, back through the tube then around the axle, and zipped up.

whitehillbilly

Paddocks have the tube nuts & flare nuts at a reasonable price, I tend to keep them in stock now.
Tube I buy locally.

I have the 'wing nut' type flaring tool (a Snap On one I picked up at a boot sale in the UK years ago). It's actually Metric but flares Imperial tube OK.

On my Series I the pipes were rusty but not badly bent so I removed them and used a piece of string to get the tube length then added a bit and cut the tube using a mini pipe cutter. It's easier to work with a length rather than the whole roll.
I then roughly matched the bends in the pipe I'd removed, back under the car several times to check. Then fit the nut and flare one end, back under and fit and a final check of the layout and mark the tube where it needs to be cut to get the length correct (allowing a bit for the flare).
Finally off with the pipe and, remembering to fit the nut !!, do the second flare.

All the bends were done by hand, I purchased a tool but didn't use it.






Colin

Thanks Colin.
Do you use anything on the thread or is dry good enough?
cheers,
D