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Thread: Brake drums s3

  1. #1
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    Brake drums s3

    Took the s3 in for a brake service. Need some stuff done.
    Not sure i understand the point or need to get the drums machined? Is this because the inside has not worn uniformly and there is a need for it to be the same size all the way around? Was told that they cannot be machined as they were not within tolerance so I should expect a wearing in time. Should I be sourcing a new set of hubs for next time?
    Confused.
    cheers,
    d
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  2. #2
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    G'day Dark,

    I was just thinking of the very thing yesterday while forming a "to do list" with one of my Series IIIs. I thought to myself, "what is the bet that if I took the drums into be machined they would say they were too thin to machine!" Lucky for me they are not the first thing on the list at the moment

    With the drums being out of round when the brake shoes expand while braking they would be riding on high spots and low spots. This would produce brake shuddering. Also, being out of round would make brake adjustment difficult.

    New drums are still available to buy. The flow on effect is the last set of shoes might be larger than normal too so they matched the wear in the drum. So there is the possibility of new brake drums and new shoes to match.

    Brakes are handy to have when you need them. If the vehicle is just a paddock basher then the priority would be different to registered on the road out in public use vehicle.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  3. #3
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    They could be badly scored/grooved or have a lip.
    They have a "sixty thou" tolerance over standard size 10 inch or 11 inch, so if they are machined out to that diameter and are still badly grooved they
    are regarded as scrap. Most 10 and 11 inch Land Rover drums have the maximum size cast on them, ie. 10.060" or 11.060"
    Technically once machined they should then have oversize shoes that are radius ground to suit the particular drum's internal radius, but I don't know
    if you can get oversize shoes made anymore. It's a long time since this town I am in had a brake shop that did all that type of work such as bonding or
    riveting shoes, radius grinding, etc.
    New drums and shoes are not all that expensive and "you" should never have to replace them again.
    I think all the OH&S laws may have been a big contributor to brake workshops closing.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  4. #4
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    Thanks Gents.
    Always good to seek proper advice. Two local Garages I took it into didn't fancy it ( I got the Land Rover Smile) so I took it to ABS.
    Expensive , but its the brakes and this is my "daily driver".
    I'll have a tinker with Darwin at some point (bush basher) but I don't trust myself with the one destined for the public highway!
    I'll put a set of drums on my wishlist and I'll see what life I should expect from what I currently have when I go in and pick it up.
    cheers,
    D
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  5. #5
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    G'day Dark,

    If you want to have an idea of prices take a quick trip to eBay and type in "Series 3 land rover brake drums 109" Then look out for your engine size.

    The other thing to watch out for is whether a previous owner upgraded the brakes. I have a 109 with a 2.5 diesel which the previous owner upgraded to the brakes off a 2.6 litre engine. It could be handy information to have when buying new parts.

    Kind Regards
    Lionel

  6. #6
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    As already mentioned drums can wear unevenly or warp and become out of round. The drum often wears most closest to the mounting face because the brake dust & debris can't get out of the drum.
    There are three holes around the edge of the drum that need to be cleaned out, these help shed water & debris.

    If they are grooved, new shoes take a long time to bed in and get full contact. If you think about it a grooved drum will actually have a bigger surface area and as long as the shoes fit in the grooves exactly then better braking......
    Often they are still 'round' but because they have worn unevenly and/or have grooves a 'brake place' will insist they need machining. So far, touch wood, all of mine have been worn but not out of round so I've never had to have any machined but I have scraped the wear lip off so the drums go on & off the hub easier.

    Beware Ebay purchases, **itpart etc. Cast iron needs to be good quality and cooled down evenly otherwise you may get problems. A good brake place can track down 'name brand' drums but they are more expensive. I've noticed with the cheaper drums that instead of having three countersunk holes to hold the drum in place they often only machine one. Should be OK, only really comes into play if a wheel comes off and you want the drum to stay in place (god forbid).
    Last quote I got (trade) was $60 for LWB drums from Europe (15GBP from Paddocks but freight would make it up to close to $60).

    You really need to find an 'old school' brake place but they are getting harder to find. Father-in-Law worked for Neville Pearce Brakes in Hallam but he sold the business some years ago then the new owner shut the VIC operation down. They had drums cast for vintage & veteran vehicles, repaired shoes, machined shoes to match drums, worked on vintage race vehicles etc. etc. Another old place in Dandenong closed a year or so ago.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

  7. #7
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    Lionel - thanks and understood re the upgrade etc. ABS sounded like they knew what they were talking about and so I will check with them whats on there, standard or upgrade.

    Colin, thanks also. I have seen $90 local and gbp15 UK - neither of which suggested a make or shipping. I will look into it further. I'm guessing I am well in the groove with Darwin as I could only get one hub off. Time to break out the drill I suspect!

    cheers,
    d
    1957 88 Petrol (Chumlee)
    1960 88 Petrol (Darwin)
    1975 88 Diesel (Mutley)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark61 View Post
    I'm guessing I am well in the groove with Darwin as I could only get one hub off. Time to break out the drill I suspect!
    It's usually a combination of a lip at the edge of the drum (wear & rust) and the slave cylinder seized so it won't let the shoes away from the drum.

    Slacken off the adjusters and once you've removed the 3 countersunk screws there should be a tapped hole in the drum near where the screws have been removed. Can't remember if it's 5/16" or 3/8" Whitworth, screw a bolt in carefully while tapping round the drum with a hide mallet (or similar) if it moves a bit screw the bolt in some more etc. Don't go too hard with the bolt or the drum will break.

    Best of luck.

    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C, Suzuki SV650

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