Thread: 1976 S3 Petrol 'Surging/Hopping' Up Hills & 'Cold Start' Question

Got a few little jobs done today. Made up some gaskets, also fitted a new brass screen filter to the pickup pipe. Decided to use 'liquid metal' to secure the screen, I've used it before in petrol and oil applications with success. I think it will hold up better than wire and solder.
Instead of gobs of silicone sealant on the gaskets, I just used some Vegemite (aka Loctite Aviation Gasket Sealant). It's safe to use with petrol and spreads on the surfaces with a brush, doesn't completely harden, so the gaskets can be reused if and when I need to remove them.
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I've fitted a new cartridge to the AC Delco filter and blown out all the lines. I've suctioned out as much of the debris from the bottom of the tank as I could with the equipment I've got. I stopped short of removing the drain plug as it's almost round and I feared I wouldn't get it back on, will have to get a new one. I think I got enough crap out of it for now, combined with the screen on the pipe, that should be good enough.
I also stopped short of checking the carby float bowl because, well, I just don't know how without removing the carby. I looked at it, the bowl appears to be secured by 4 screws from the the top, but being a bike guy, I didn't want to just dive in before looking in to it first. Looking at this site: HOW TO REBUILD A CARBURETTOR - ZENITH 36IV | Land Rover Monthly,I reckon the carb will need to be removed completely to give a proper inspection/clean of the bowl. Am I correct? Damn, there's a lot more linkages than on a bike, which have none. But as mentioned earlier, I don't want to be getting into anything that may leave a large object sitting in the driveway for an extended period.

Starts up, runs and idles perfectly, but only a proper test drive up a long hill will see if I've made a difference. No test tonight as I just put it on historic reg so will wait for a proper drive tomorrow and make the log book entry worthwhile.

Rod, I am disappointed to find out I have a long range fuel tank similar to the one you posted. Why disappointed? because that means at 300km per tank, I'm only getting around 4lt/km. I was certain I had filled it with 65lt the first day, but then couldn't find reference to a 65lt tank anywhere, so assumed I had the standard 45lt and had read the bowzer wrong. I wasn't using the OD at the time I measure that, now that I've changed the oil and feel more confident about its condition, I'm using it more often so will see if that makes any difference.
Ah well, I didn't buy it for it's economy.

The top of the Zenith can be removed with the carbie in place. Undo the fuel line and choke cable, and the air hose from the aircleaner. Disconnect the throttle to choke link, taking care not to lose any bits.

Then undo the screws holding the top on - note which came from where, from memory the lengths are different. Lift the top off. This gives access to the bowl and all the jets. The float level can be checked and if thought to be necessary, you can easily remove the emulsion block by undoing two screws and the needle valve. The float is removed by pushing out the pivot pin.

Take particular care with the O-ring that seals between the two parts - damage to this or dirt on the seat accounts for 90% of issues with the Zenith.

If the top is warped, it may cause leaks between passages or fail to seat the O-ring properly. In this case, remove the emulsion block and lap it flat with wet and dry on a piece of plate glass or other flat surface. Make sure that the screws holding the emulsion block are not holding the top apart from the body - burrs on the heads of these can result in their bottoming against the body, again, stopping the O-ring sealing properly.

John

Originally Posted by JDNSW

The top of the Zenith can be removed with the carbie in place. Undo the fuel line and choke cable, and the air hose from the aircleaner. Disconnect the throttle to choke link, taking care not to lose any bits.

Then undo the screws holding the top on - note which came from where, from memory the lengths are different. Lift the top off. This gives access to the bowl and all the jets. The float level can be checked and if thought to be necessary, you can easily remove the emulsion block by undoing two screws and the needle valve. The float is removed by pushing out the pivot pin.

Take particular care with the O-ring that seals between the two parts - damage to this or dirt on the seat accounts for 90% of issues with the Zenith.

If the top is warped, it may cause leaks between passages or fail to seat the O-ring properly. In this case, remove the emulsion block and lap it flat with wet and dry on a piece of plate glass or other flat surface. Make sure that the screws holding the emulsion block are not holding the top apart from the body - burrs on the heads of these can result in their bottoming against the body, again, stopping the O-ring sealing properly.

John

Makes a bit more sense now, the bowl is part of the assembly that is bolted to the manifold. Again, just a bit different to bikes. I'm glad I didn't try and tear in to it last night. I'll grab a rebuild kit before I start on that job. Thanks John

Success! (knock on wood)

Had the LR out for 3 days now, not so much as a hiccup going up hills. I've tried as best I can to duplicate the exact conditions, going up the same hill where it happened without fail every time, I tried 5 times and still no issues.

I have yet to clean out the carby, as I wasn't able to pick up a rebuild kit before the weekend, but will get in to that over Easter. I could stop here but from what I saw in the filters, it's still a good idea to have a look.

It was a good 3 days of driving, with a variety of roads. Lots through the Adelaide Hills and some good runs at 80kph for extended periods. The Landy performed faultlessly, though I'm still getting use to the sounds of the Fairey OD.

Thanks for all your help, Gentlemen! I'll be calling again!

I am glad you managed to sort the fuel problem out, There is something that is just so pleasing when you finally iron out a problem that has been an annoyance that spoils your drive

Well Don it is good to hear you seem to have it sorted and you have got it done just in time to take the vehicle for a run to Melrose this coming weekend.


Cheers, Mick.

Well done Don, satisfaction is great when you have fixed a fault on ur own. Its a good feeling, of which u will get many more satisfying feelings during real Land Rover ownership.

Cheers Rod

Originally Posted by mick88

Well Don it is good to hear you seem to have it sorted and you have got it done just in time to take the vehicle for a run to Melrose this coming weekend.


Cheers, Mick.

Oooooh, I wish! I'm on call this Easter. Probably a good thing, I have zero off road experience with 4 wheels (plenty on 2) and I need to go through and familiarize myself with the full maintenance regime and check all rubbers etc before I get her dirty. I know at least one rubber boot is all but non-existent on a drive shaft, probably a few more issues like that.

I really need to get level ground to work on it, my oil levels are inaccurate in my driveway.