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Thread: Stuck clutch help

  1. #1
    Perentie1111 Guest

    Stuck clutch help

    G'day all I'm new here and hoping to pick some brains and maybe share some limited knowledge too

    I own 3 issues...
    Perentie RFSF (Pilbara regiment)
    Factory stage 1 safari
    Series 3 mutant with 3.5 etc

    However, I'm just hoping for an easy fix idea for one issue with the series 3 / rangey clutch. If anyone can solve it it would be most appreciated

    Ok, so, series 3 with older 3.5 Range Rover petrol v8 and Range Rover 4 speed manual gear box.

    The issue is that the clutch will not dids-engage. The peddle has pressure and I have bled master and slave.
    So I put it in gear and the landy can not be pushed forward or backwards even with the clutch in.

    This landy has sat for years.

    It's been put to me that the clutch assembly is seized on due to the long time sitting and the box may need to be taken out to try and free it.

    One suggestion I've had was to nose it up to a tree, disconnect front shaft put diff lock on and low range and give it hell.... I guess with rear on axle stands..

    So before I attempt any of that I was hoping for another solution. ???

    Any tips advice ideas or sorcery would be appreciated

    Cheers

  2. #2
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    If it has been standing for a long time it is quite possible that the clutch is stuck due to rust. Assuming that you are assured that the clutch withdrawal mechanism is working (by the feel of the pedal), some people have had success in freeing the clutch by brute force. There have been various suggestions how to do this.

    What is needed to do is to either drive the clutch via the engine and stop the output, or drive the clutch via the gearbox and stop the engine, in both cases with the clutch disengaged.

    The first is easier and safer, assuming the engine runs. With a clear space to run, start the engine with it in the highest gear that you can, probably third (a downslope helps) and once moving well, with the clutch disengaged, apply heavy braking, and with any luck the clutch will release before the engine stalls.

    The second requires you to tow the vehicle with engine off, top gear and clutch disengaged.

    Don't disengage any prop shafts.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  3. #3
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    It happens with my series ones now and then as I sometimes forget to take them for a run .
    I chock the front wheels, jack up the two rears, start in gear then with foot on clutch start dabbing the brakes, giving it a few revs. As everything warms up it may come free. Might take a while so could be better than just driving around.
    With yours you would have to remove the front shaft and lock the centre diff.

    Keith

  4. #4
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    Put it under load

    Hello from Brisbane.

    Our farm truck (S2A) would occasionally do this and, as suggested before, it was usually due to long periods of idleness with the plate sticking to the flywheel or pressure plate.

    Our cure was to pull it out of gear and roll it backwards down a slope from the shed to a dam wall. Putting it back in gear and under a bit of load either reversing the wall or heading forward back upslope towards the shed with the clutch disengaged it usually freed up.

    Cheers,

    Neil
    1975 S3 88" - Ratel

  5. #5
    Perentie1111 Guest

    Thanks all :)

    Thanks all for those suggestions, has refined some original ideas I've heard and makes a lot more sense in my head as to what the issue is and how it gets resolved. I'll have the landy somewhere I can safely try the idea with engine running in a few days and let you know how it goes.
    Much appreciated and thanks again

  6. #6
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    Do you know the condition of the clutch when the vehicle was originally parked up?
    The other possibility is a failed pressure plate, which is what happened to me only a few days ago.
    I was just up the road from home and went to clutch to change from second into third, but the clutch wouldn't break the drive line.
    As far the pedal felt all was normal, but I ended up just driving the few hundred metres back to home in second gear.
    When I pulled the clutch out this is what I found, a broken diaphragm in the pressure plate.
    One break is old and they will usually work ok like that and may not give any clues that it has happened, but inevitably when a second break
    occurs the clutch is cactus.

    Cheers, Mick.
    1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
    1971 S2A 88
    1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
    1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
    1972 S3 88 x 2
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
    1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
    1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
    REMLR 88
    1969 BSA Bantam B175

  7. #7
    Perentie1111 Guest

    Solved :)

    So, I had to tow it out of a tight spot to square up to a car trailer, and figured based on all of the above, I'll put a bit of wood on the clutch pedal to hold it down, pip it in third and tow slowly. Moved about 2 meters and it was sorted drove it arround the block, what a beast! Not bad for 12 to 14 years sitting . Someone loved her once and did a lot of mods.
    (Note; forgot the joy of leaf springs...)

    Thanks all for the combined info and helping me solve this without pulling out a gearbox ... from an s3, .. through the cab... :-/
    Awesome thanks again

  8. #8
    JDNSW's Avatar
    JDNSW is online now RoverLord Silver Subscriber
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    You can actually change the clutch without pulling the box out, just move it back. Bit tight, but can be done - I did it in the middle of the Simpson in 1966.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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